Should I buy or run? 1987 300D Turbo - Mercedes-Benz Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 09-14-2005, 05:56 AM Thread Starter
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Should I buy or run? 1987 300D Turbo

New to MB and am looking for advice on wheter or not I should purchase this car. Can probably be gotten for 1 to 1.5K.

Some history on car:

239K miles, new brakes (calipers, pads, rotors), new tranny at 210K. Timing belt at 150K. Limited maintenance records available.

Current owner has had it 9 years, bought it for his daughter to get to and from college. Not certain on how well she kept up with maintenance.

I went to look at it last night, and here is what I noticed:

Good Things:

Looks like all electrics work, seats, windows, sunroof, etc. Antenna not operational.
Oil was black, water was clear of oil.
Clear exhaust. No smoke.
Suspension seems fine, rode real well.
Temp did not go over 85.
Dash not cracked.
All gauges work.
I have the name and number for their mechanic. This might be good or bad, will know more after talking to him.
Full first aid kit.
Brakes feel good.

Normal Things: (I think)

Body fair, rust at all jack points, small areas of rust around wheel wells (1/2 to 1 inche square on all 4). Small spot on trunk.
Interior dirty, carper worse. Lower console wood panel cracked. Passenger rear door arm rest needs reattached.
Speedo bounces.
Play in steering.
Grill rock dings.
Hood does not latch down.
AC has been changed to 134, but has a leak. Not operational.
No owners manual.
Paint fair. Probably has not seen wax in 5 years or so.


Things that make me worry:

Not sure on head, will see if I can find out if it is a newer one or not.

This might be subjective, never had a MD, let alone a oilburner, but it felt like the parking brake was on when trying to go foward from a stop. Put in Drive, and could remove foot from brake, would not move. Had to gas it to get it to go. Not the same in Reverse, which felt normal. This only happens getting the car rolling, once it is rolling, seems to accelerate good.

Oil Leak. Unable to tell exactly where, but was on the driver side of motor, below the device where all the injector lines connect (is this the IP?).

Brake release does not return pedal.

Not sure if daughter kept up with maintenance, or just did what needed to be done to keep it on road.

Unsteady idle, would be at 500, then go to 800, and back down. This was after about 5 miles of driving.


My situation:

I was wanting a reliable daily driver. I would probably have an additional 2-3K to put into the car to get it that way, and was curious if this would be a good choice.
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post #2 of 8 Old 09-14-2005, 10:54 AM
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Just some quick observations:

You are right to check on the cylinder head, as that could be a major factor. The head number should be visible to tell whether it is a new(er) one.

Yes, that is the IP.

I am skeptical of R134 conversions in these cars, and recommend sticking with R12. Either way, if the compressor is bad you could be looking at $1k just to fix that but it will blow VERY cold.

Play in steering could be a number of things. Try to find out the cause, but a but front end rebuild is not terrible.

The hood not closing could be a sign of a wreck. Try to determine the cause.

Oil will always be black in a diesel.

Speedo should not bounce.

An '87 300D wont burn rubber off the line, but it should not be a dog either. These are fast diesels. Something as simple as a lose vacuum line could cause this, or it could be worse.

If the cylinder head is the old type, or if it has been wrecked, I would probably pass on it.

Standard Disclaimer:
These cars can be very reliable and economical, but I cannot say whether that is true for this car.

\'87 Mer-B 300D (220,000 miles) (sold)
\'93 Mer-B 300D (173,000 miles) (sold)
\'87 Porsche 928 (101,000 miles)
\'98 Dodge Ram quad-cab (250,000 miles)
\'2001 CLK430 Cabrio (50,000 miles)

Past cars: 1969 mercedes 250, 1981 300D, 1972 220D
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post #3 of 8 Old 09-15-2005, 04:17 PM
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-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"239K miles, new brakes (calipers, pads, rotors), new tranny at 210K. Timing belt at 150K. "
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This engine does not use a timing belt, but a chain if im not mistaken
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post #4 of 8 Old 09-15-2005, 05:19 PM
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You are correct.

\'87 Mer-B 300D (220,000 miles) (sold)
\'93 Mer-B 300D (173,000 miles) (sold)
\'87 Porsche 928 (101,000 miles)
\'98 Dodge Ram quad-cab (250,000 miles)
\'2001 CLK430 Cabrio (50,000 miles)

Past cars: 1969 mercedes 250, 1981 300D, 1972 220D
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post #5 of 8 Old 09-18-2005, 09:47 PM
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i own an 87' 300d, imo even if it has a few kinks i think its worth putting the money into it. The car will almost last forever if taken care of and when you get it back to a "like new" condition it should treat you good for years to come.

as for the speed, it is true that off the line you shouldnt expect much, most benzs of that era are 2nd gear start and probably wont win any drags but when the turbo kicks in full blast the car should be a good highway contender and give you enough power to pass by those annoying hondas. But be cautious if you suspect turbo trouble i believe there was a problem with the original trap oxidizer sending metal into the turbos which could kill the hardware.

if you want a car just as good for less money i suggest checking out a 79-85' 300d(w123) or a (w126) 300sd. the engine in these cars "the 617" has proven itself to be imo the most reliable engine in the world and i say that with confidence. Plus with these models you dont lose any of the luxury and perks you get with the 87'. (A/C, cruise control, power windows, etc etc). its alot slower but who cares if you get over taken, you will still look better losing =).
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post #6 of 8 Old 09-18-2005, 09:50 PM
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also i experience the bouncing speedo and the high idle. Been this way for 2 years (the time i have owned the car) and hasnt seemed to cause any problems.

FYI these engines are notorious for smoking alot in the morning start up, but it isnt any problem that i know of, just 1 con to a car full of pros
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post #7 of 8 Old 03-31-2015, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98fxd View Post
New to MB and am looking for advice on wheter or not I should purchase this car. Can probably be gotten for 1 to 1.5K.

Some history on car:

239K miles, new brakes (calipers, pads, rotors), new tranny at 210K. Timing belt at 150K. Limited maintenance records available.

Current owner has had it 9 years, bought it for his daughter to get to and from college. Not certain on how well she kept up with maintenance.

I went to look at it last night, and here is what I noticed:

Good Things:

Looks like all electrics work, seats, windows, sunroof, etc. Antenna not operational.
Oil was black, water was clear of oil.
Clear exhaust. No smoke.
Suspension seems fine, rode real well.
Temp did not go over 85.
Dash not cracked.
All gauges work.
I have the name and number for their mechanic. This might be good or bad, will know more after talking to him.
Full first aid kit.
Brakes feel good.

Normal Things: (I think)

Body fair, rust at all jack points, small areas of rust around wheel wells (1/2 to 1 inche square on all 4). Small spot on trunk.
Interior dirty, carper worse. Lower console wood panel cracked. Passenger rear door arm rest needs reattached.
Speedo bounces.
Play in steering.
Grill rock dings.
Hood does not latch down.
AC has been changed to 134, but has a leak. Not operational.
No owners manual.
Paint fair. Probably has not seen wax in 5 years or so.


Things that make me worry:

Not sure on head, will see if I can find out if it is a newer one or not.

This might be subjective, never had a MD, let alone a oilburner, but it felt like the parking brake was on when trying to go foward from a stop. Put in Drive, and could remove foot from brake, would not move. Had to gas it to get it to go. Not the same in Reverse, which felt normal. This only happens getting the car rolling, once it is rolling, seems to accelerate good.

Oil Leak. Unable to tell exactly where, but was on the driver side of motor, below the device where all the injector lines connect (is this the IP?).

Brake release does not return pedal.

Not sure if daughter kept up with maintenance, or just did what needed to be done to keep it on road.

Unsteady idle, would be at 500, then go to 800, and back down. This was after about 5 miles of driving.


My situation:

I was wanting a reliable daily driver. I would probably have an additional 2-3K to put into the car to get it that way, and was curious if this would be a good choice.

Good tool for your car

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Thanks
Amyly
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post #8 of 8 Old 05-08-2015, 05:14 AM
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I would suggest you to go ahead; as I feel it’s good with the stuff you mention and to be honest if the maintenance is good then it does not matter if its 9 years of 15, it can still be very good, so you should take it especially with the reasonable rates, I would have done exactly that as it’s not bad to have such vehicle if it’s maintained so well.
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