1985 Mercedes 380SE - wont start - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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#11 Old 12-28-2012, 08:47 AM
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Hi Eric,
NO I did not check this used coil.
Its too cold outside right now & I can only stay out there for a brief time.
The used coil I just put in is from my 1987 Lincoln Town Car, its almost the same size, plus there was nothing wrong with it when I replaced the coil on my Lincoln 10 years ago.
I know the specs will be a little off, however I just wanted to see if my car would at least TRY to fire up.
I dont know what you mean by vehicle identity #.
Do you mean the VIN ?
Why is this needed please ?
If this is what you need, I will post that today.
Thank You,

JAMES
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#12 Old 12-28-2012, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by SummerSouvenir View Post
Hi Eric,
NO I did not check this used coil.
Its too cold outside right now & I can only stay out there for a brief time.
The used coil I just put in is from my 1987 Lincoln Town Car, its almost the same size, plus there was nothing wrong with it when I replaced the coil on my Lincoln 10 years ago.
I know the specs will be a little off, however I just wanted to see if my car would at least TRY to fire up.
I dont know what you mean by vehicle identity #.
Do you mean the VIN ?
Why is this needed please ?
If this is what you need, I will post that today.
Thank You,

JAMES
Yes I do mean VIN so I can look at the engine in more detail, lot of years since I worked on one of these.

ERIC
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#13 Old 12-28-2012, 01:22 PM
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I will check the used coil once the weather breaks and the snow we are getting 2moro. Plus I gotta re-charge the battery.
That used Ford coil I put on was laying around for close to 10 years.
The VIN: WDBCA32C7FA182039



Thank You,
JAMES

Last edited by SummerSouvenir; 12-28-2012 at 02:04 PM.
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#14 Old 12-28-2012, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by SummerSouvenir View Post
I will check the used coil once the weather breaks and the snow we are getting 2moro. Plus I gotta re-charge the battery.
That used Ford coil I put on was laying around for close to 10 years.
The VIN: WDBCA32C7FA182039



Thank You,
JAMES
Thanks for the vin # and now I know exactly which engine we are talking about, the 116. The most likely cause is the TDC sensor which should be located near the lower front crankshaft pulley. Left click the attachment to enlarge;
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ERIC
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#15 Old 01-05-2013, 02:15 PM
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Thanks Eric for all your help, finally got a small break in the cold weather here, and you were right, thank you.
One last question please regarding the distributor cap.
First, the distributor is the original.
I have several replacement distributor caps, including bosch, borg warner and bwd.
All 3 caps, all 3 brands, same problem.
The 2 bolts that secure the cap, you push down and turn ,
none of the bolts will reach down far enough to reach anywhere to secure them,
no matter how far I push them down.
Any suggestions ?
I know these caps are the right caps for my car.
The cap was always a little loose.

Thanks
James
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#16 Old 01-06-2013, 02:14 AM
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Originally Posted by SummerSouvenir View Post
Thanks Eric for all your help, finally got a small break in the cold weather here, and you were right, thank you.
One last question please regarding the distributor cap.
First, the distributor is the original.
I have several replacement distributor caps, including bosch, borg warner and bwd.
All 3 caps, all 3 brands, same problem.
The 2 bolts that secure the cap, you push down and turn ,
none of the bolts will reach down far enough to reach anywhere to secure them,
no matter how far I push them down.
Any suggestions ?
I know these caps are the right caps for my car.
The cap was always a little loose.

Thanks
James
Sorry I have never come across this problem before, the cap must be tight. Take a tour of the junk yards and spy a few caps and distributors, it may give you the answer.

ERIC
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#17 Old 01-09-2013, 11:23 AM
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OK I figured it out.
Another question please,
the timing I believe is supposed to be set at 25.
Timing light clamp on wire # 1.
It is reading 35 degrees with vacuum disconnected AT IDLE 550rpm.
The car runs more like the timing is retarded,
does 35 mean its advanced ??? or retarded 10 degrees ???
The distributor hold down clamp using an allen wrench socket,
do you know the size of the allen wrench I need ?

Thank You,
JAMES

Last edited by SummerSouvenir; 01-09-2013 at 12:10 PM.
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#18 Old 02-22-2013, 12:31 AM
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james, the haynes manual should help. library resources like mitchell database was a help for me. i also was able to get a UK haynes manual sent for my merc. the pics and the specs are more thorough. on mine i found the cap had been coated and dried inside after my water pumps demise. years later the coolant was not visible but resistance readings were way too high. rotor too. measure from inside cap to plug connection when removed from plug. ROT 5k ohms per foot. these parts all add up fast on these cars. test first and know why b4 replacing. a dvom can test the crank sensor. the schematics are easy to read in the uk books. are you having a starter feed wire problem? some mercs have relay feed that comes from the starter and the wire can be corroded. see also ac relay feed. these dont always have trouble codes. look for corroded or loose terminals. i have a 190E so its not the exact same, but somethings rotten in stuttgart when the new relay doesnt get triggered. grounds, and switches that have years on them are suspects too. ovp relay is a fused relay. but once it runs you can go see your mech.
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#19 Old 02-22-2013, 12:53 AM
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james, to clarify, 85 mercs dont have codes and pinpoint tests like newer vehicles. that means you must get a schematic, a 12v test light and a dvom. once it runs, goto a german car shop for the setting of the timing. an ovp relay is fused to protect the fuel computer or ecu. its 10a atc fuse is in its top under a clear plastic lift cover. see also the fusebox for any oxidized, corroded fuses. spinning them in place can reestablish contact. use bosch parts where you can theres also beck arnley stuff thats very close to the oem. Dan
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