No throttle/acceleration 1999 ML430, 101000 miles - Mercedes-Benz Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 04-19-2009, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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No throttle/acceleration 1999 ML430, 101000 miles

No acceleration 1999 ML430, 101000 miles

My battery died after the truck sat in my garage for about 2 months. Tried jumping it (cant remember if key was in the ignition or not) but it wouldn’t start. Went out and bought a new one and put it in. Now the BAS/ESP light is on and I have no throttle/acceleration when I hit the gas pedal. Idle seems perfect in Park/Neutral and drive … when I hit the gas sometimes there is no change to idle, other times it becomes erratic. Here is what I have done so far: replaced plugs and checked coils, replaced MAF (if I disconnect the old or the new MAF while the car is idling, it switches off. Dont know if it is meant to or not), replaced CPS, checked fuel pressure (ok), removed and cleaned throttle, bought an OBD2 scanner (throwing code P0110 whether I use old MAF or new one), tried removing BAS light by turning wheel left to right several times (no luck), tried putting key in pos 2 for 2 minutes then pressing gas pedal to the floor and up and starting (no luck with this reset or several other variations). I am totally lost. Anyone have any ideas? I towed it into the dealer and they said I need a new MAF. After they put in a new one, it did the same thing. Then they said I need a new throttle (I told them to go pound sand, towed it home, and that’s when I tried everything else). I cant imagine why a battery dying would cause all these issues. It was running perfectly until then.
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post #2 of 9 Old 05-18-2009, 09:24 AM
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No Acceleration ML 430

I have a similar problem with my 2000 ML 430. Car seems to run just fine except for occasional rough idle. However, if I am trying to floor it in traffic it seems to just chugg along and nothing much happens,I do have a bad ABS pump that has three indicator lamps lit. ESP/BAS, ABS and Break waring. But, this has never affected accleration before. (I refuse to fix the ABS pump)
Keep in mind that I can get around town just fine, even travel on the highway at 80MPH. I just can't gun it cause nothing happens. I have 105K miles on it. Does not seem to be spark plugs, my guess is MAF unit or fuel injectors? Has anyone had this issue?
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post #3 of 9 Old 05-27-2009, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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Thought I would provide an update. Towed it to the dealer. Apparently, my ECM experienced a voltage spike and stopped communicating. Thats why no resets worked and my computer would show any errors. No way to fix it. Only fix is to get a new one. The dealer replaced it and my truck is back to normal. Total cost $2515.28. Apparently ECMs can only come from germany and each one is vin specific. You cant get one from a junk yard or of ebay.
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post #4 of 9 Old 06-04-2009, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by rabbipal View Post
Thought I would provide an update. Towed it to the dealer. Apparently, my ECM experienced a voltage spike and stopped communicating. Thats why no resets worked and my computer would show any errors. No way to fix it. Only fix is to get a new one. The dealer replaced it and my truck is back to normal. Total cost $2515.28. Apparently ECMs can only come from germany and each one is vin specific. You cant get one from a junk yard or of ebay.
Buying from Ebay or a junk yard is not an option in my books. However I disagree with the VIN specific part. The norm is to order an ECM for that model and then use DAS to extract the coding from the old ECM (incidentally it is known in the trade as the ECU) and input the coding into the new ECU.

This is known as Variant Coding. After this has been done we move to Adaptations to (marry) the unit to the engine.

Hope this helps.

ERIC
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post #5 of 9 Old 09-22-2013, 07:23 AM
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When there is no throttle response, turn key to position #2, DO NOT START ENGINE. Leave in that position for 60 seconds, then turn key off to position O. Wait 10 sec., then start engine. Let the truck idle for a couple of minutes, then check for throttle response.

Exact thing happened to me and this works. Try before heading to the stealership!
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Originally Posted by 1999ML430 View Post
When there is no throttle response, turn key to position #2, DO NOT START ENGINE. Leave in that position for 60 seconds, then turn key off to position O. Wait 10 sec., then start engine. Let the truck idle for a couple of minutes, then check for throttle response.

Exact thing happened to me and this works. Try before heading to the stealership!
It worked for me too. Thanks.
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post #7 of 9 Old 04-08-2015, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1999ML430 View Post
When there is no throttle response, turn key to position #2, DO NOT START ENGINE. Leave in that position for 60 seconds, then turn key off to position O. Wait 10 sec., then start engine. Let the truck idle for a couple of minutes, then check for throttle response.

Exact thing happened to me and this works. Try before heading to the stealership!
This worked for me, Thank you so much
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post #8 of 9 Old 06-01-2016, 11:42 AM
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I left my key on and battery ran down then I jump started my ML 320 and I have the same problem as the OP. No throttle and BAS/ESP light with no throttle response.
I tried a new brake light switch, ESP relay off of a friends 2001 ML320, battery off my friends 320, all the key and steering wheel reset procedures. My friend has offered to let me switch out parts to test them.

Starts and runs fine, will go into gear but no throttle response!
Nearest dealer is hours away and I would have to trailer the 320 for diagnostics.

I think I have it narrowed to the ESP/BAS module or the ECM but I don't want to guess. Can I mail the ECM in for diagnostics?

Is there any way to tell if it is the BAS/ESP or the ECM?

Can anyone suggest something?

Thanks

Last edited by James X; 06-01-2016 at 01:31 PM.
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post #9 of 9 Old 06-17-2016, 04:58 PM
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I never received any replies or help but I did get it fixed.

I trailered it to a dealership, the nearest one was in another state/El Paso. They diagnosed it and did some "programming/clearing of codes" adjusted throttle. Claimed it had a bad brake light switch and when I interrupted and said I already replaced it they changed that story the next day and said they just adjusted the old brake switch. 2 hours @ $240

Said the battery was bad and would like to replace it at $226. I could have gotten a battery for $80 but I figured this car was so fickle I was afraid to put a battery on it myself.

So it cost me the round trip one way on a trailer, and about $480 and 3 weeks without the car. I like the ML320 but it needs to go now. It is just beautiful, was a one owner car and operates well. It is just too fickle a vehicle for me and far too expensive repair. Not the $480 it is just no one can work on it without trailering it so far away etc.
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