'95 E300D fuel plumbing - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #11 of 31 Old 09-28-2009, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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Found a little more...

I stopped by my MB dealer today, and a different person at the parts counter spent a fair bit of time sifting through EPC to help me with the delivery valve seals. The system doesn't show detail on the delivery valves for the OM606.910 motor in my car. His recollection was that you had to look at a diagram from a different car/motor with the same pump. He had both the o-rings and copper washers in stock, so now all I need is the socket.

If I can find the o-rings in Viton locally before I tear things apart, I'll upgrade. If not, then I have bought some time. It looks like Viton o-rings for this are available here.

I also found a post that has info about the part numbers for these little doohickies. These numbers match my receipt today.
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post #12 of 31 Old 09-28-2009, 05:57 PM
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For whatever reason, the delivery valve o-rings and washers don't seem to show up for the OM606 engines. But, they're the same as those found in the '87 300D/TD and '90 - '93 300D 2.5 turbo cars, so check those out as well. You'll need six of each


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post #13 of 31 Old 09-28-2009, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! I found a guy at the parts counter that seems to be in on the secret. Now if MB would upgrade to Viton for their replacement parts...
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post #14 of 31 Old 01-23-2010, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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Finally found the time!

I finally got around to getting after the delivery valve seals. After 10.5 hours overnight, nose up on the driveway, it started perfectly. I declare complete victory!

Here is how it went:
The whole enchilada


The destination: Injection pump hiding under the intake manifold


It helps to have the washer bottle out of the way. There are two little pumps on the washer bottle. You can just pull them out of their grommets, and watch a geyser of washer fluid. After that, undo a wingnut, and flop it over the strut top with the coolant lines still attached.



The real work starts on the opposite side, have to remove the valve, EGR pipe and crossover


Here is a detailed look at how the mixer valve is connected


I thought it would be handy to have a reference for how the throttle linkages were connected. Please note the other ball joint on the under side. It was stubborn to reconnect.


I was very afraid of chunks falling into bad places, so I tried to cover gaping holes, especially the ones that would be open for the next 10 hours.


Hey! There is a valve under the cross over pipes. I just detached the bracket and ball joint and left the valve in place. I will clean pipes another time.


Hey! There is a valve under the intake manifold. I took this picture so I could reattach the vacuum lines later. There are also two electrical connectors.


Here is the routing for the crankcase ventilation.


Some of the rubber fittings that fit into the manifold were cracked. This would have been a good time to replace them all if I had planned ahead.


Here is the valve under the manifold after it is unhooked, and the manifold is off.


Sure looks different with out those huge aluminum pipes off.


Man, that glow plug harness housing is in the way! Just when we are getting to where we are going to do the work!


I don't recall if I was shaking with anger over the glow plug harness, or if I was just in a hurry. At any rate, you can get useful access to the delivery valves. I hope you remembered the splined socket.


Sadly, I have no clue what this connector goes to. I don't recall unhooking it, and the car runs with it loose. If you know what it is, and why I should reconnect it, please let me know.



That is it. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

Lessons learned:

* Might want to take this task on after the washer bottle is low. Mine was full. When I pulled the little valves it drained for a long time. I could do without the puddle.
* That valve on the underside of the back half of the intake manifold is an irritant. I figure I got all the hoses and wires back together correctly since it runs.
* I wish that I didn't have to unhook the crankcase ventilation tubes at the manifold in order to move a bracket in order to get to all the manifold bolts. One of the old rubber pieces broke off at the manifold. I haven't found the part in town, so I have at least one parts order to make.
* The last two Torx bolts on the intake manifold by the firewall are a bear to get to. You should have a u-joint for your ratchet.
* Those little ball joints don't always want to snap together very easily.
* Some days, a little cable claw tool is the handiest thing. I dropped more stuff on the belly pan!
* It is helpful to have a helper while setting the manifold back in place; it is always good to have an 18 year-old helper for some of the awkward reaching.
* It was useful to take pictures as I went. In fact, I should have taken more. I had at least one screw I had to puzzle over for a good bit.
* The glow plug harness housing is a pain to work around.
* It matters what order things are bolted back on. For example, don't start reattaching fuel lines until those little collars are back on. Also, get the EGR pipe in place before bolting the mixer valve bracket to the engine. Also, the cable doohickey from the passenger side that screws into the top of the plastic cover on the valve cover should be put in place before you bolt the mixer valve to the engine (even better if done before you put the mixer valve in place, but definitely before you bolt to the engine).
* 1995 was a long time ago, and there is a real good chance that some plastic or rubber parts will break while you are at this task. This includes plastic brackets for metal fuel line (it pays to cover the intake ports on the head!) and, most irritatingly, the rubber hoses that plug into the intake manifold as part of the crankcase ventilation system (did they really have to spread it across the whole manifold instead of dripping it into one spot?).
* If you are planning to replace fuel lines, be prepared for diesel to flow.
* Around here 5/16 ID SAE J30R9 fuel injection line is expensive ($9/ft). This will be relevant when I do more about replacing lines later.


Your mileage may vary. Contact me if you have specific questions.

Tom
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post #15 of 31 Old 01-23-2010, 10:38 AM
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Fantastic illustrated write up Tom, I'm sure this archive will be very useful, many thanks.
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post #16 of 31 Old 01-23-2010, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Fantastic illustrated write up Tom, I'm sure this archive will be very useful, many thanks.

Thanks!

Threads with lots of pictures have helped me take the guess work out before.

Tom
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post #17 of 31 Old 01-23-2010, 05:11 PM
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Tom, this is exactly why we try to encourage members to write up and take photos of repairs so that others can learn from our experiences.

Once again, many thanks.
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post #18 of 31 Old 01-24-2010, 10:01 AM
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This is great Tom. I really appreciate the pics, 'cause I'm currently swapping a late model OM606 engine into my car, and I needed to see how the early OM606 throttle arrangement was configured.


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post #19 of 31 Old 01-24-2010, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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This is great Tom. I really appreciate the pics, 'cause I'm currently swapping a late model OM606 engine into my car, and I needed to see how the early OM606 throttle arrangement was configured.
Happy to help. You got me pointed at replacing the rubber bits back in September. I'm just slow to follow through.

I still have some other stuff to do, but successfully getting that manifold off and on unlocks a lot of possibilities.

Tom
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post #20 of 31 Old 03-19-2010, 11:21 AM
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I had to order a new delivery valve holder and the dealer noticed that the "valve carrier 7g" is different on cylinder #1. Two through 6 were the same part number. Anybody ever notice any difference?
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