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post #1 of 4 Old 12-05-2004, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
 
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New here with 1982 300SD questions

I purchased a 1982 MB 300SD from ebay that I plan on coverting to biodiesel after I complete some much needed repairs. First off, Im new to doing automotive repair so if there is any reference books/manuals/CDs/etc.. that you recommend would be a big help. So here it goes:

I tried to perform a brake job, however when I put the new pads into the front calipers and tried to re-install them, they didn't line up into the large wear groove from before. Its as though the pads were not long enough to allow the bulk of the pads to reach. These are Bendix calipers, are there special pads for these or some kind of technique to line them up? Or should I just install new rotors as well?

There is an exhaust leak coming from under the filter assembly, maybe the turbo. Is there some place thats prone to leak?

For some reason alot of moisture collects inside the trunk, along the underside of the trunk hood. Literally everythink inside my trunk becomes damp and soaked, even though the car is parked under a carport and kept dry. What is the cause?

On the electrical side, three of the power windows don't work, the tachometer doesn't work, the odometer is broken, the driver's side power seat switches are broken off and not working, the console lights don't work so I can't see the gages when I drive at night, and the headlight switch is stuck in off. How do I go about taking apart the dash, center console and the inside door panels so I can repair these?

The hood release handle is missing and the cable sticks out from under the hood, how do I run the cable back inside the vehicle to where the release handle should be?

Thats all the things I've discovered so far, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 4 Old 12-07-2004, 04:47 PM
 
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I tried to perform a brake job, however when I put the new pads into the front calipers and tried to re-install them, they didn't line up into the large wear groove from before. Its as though the pads were not long enough to allow the bulk of the pads to reach. These are Bendix calipers, are there special pads for these or some kind of technique to line them up? Or should I just install new rotors as well?
No special pads..I have never had a problem w/mine and also have the Bendix calipers. Maybe u have the wrong pads? Try Mercedes.

Quote:
There is an exhaust leak coming from under the filter assembly, maybe the turbo. Is there some place thats prone to leak?
no clue

Quote:
For some reason alot of moisture collects inside the trunk, along the underside of the trunk hood. Literally everythink inside my trunk becomes damp and soaked, even though the car is parked under a carport and kept dry. What is the cause?
never had this problem--sounds like a seal.

Quote:
On the electrical side, three of the power windows don't work
Switches go bad lots of times. If the switch is giving power and you hear things turning inside the door panel then it is the regulator. This is a metal piece inside the door panel that houses the window..has metal gears that wear out.
Quote:
the tachometer doesn't work, the odometer is broken, the driver's side power seat switches are broken off and not working, the console lights don't work so I can't see the gages when I drive at night, and the headlight switch is stuck in off. How do I go about taking apart the dash, center console and the inside door panels so I can repair these?
there is a special tool to take out the dash and the bulbs are inside there. Never had the prob w/odometer not working..you can get yours rebuilt ..have seen prices around 100-150.

If the prongs are broken off the seat switch--are they? If so, that is a much more expensive ordeal then the switches coming off. On each side, there are two plastic pieces that press fit on the plastic prongs. These are really cheap...like a few bucks per side. The prongs may look like they are broken off when in fact they are not. They are really short..should see two prongs sticking out of each side...if the car has been abused (sounds like it) then the prongs may well be busted. I fixed a broken prong and posted on here somewhere in diesel forum..I took the plastic insert out of a BIC pen and filled it with crazy glue..stuck that in the place where the prong was busted with some glue on the end of it. Just cut it to size..filling the empty ink tank w/glue hardens it up then just cut it to size..has worked for 5+ years.

Quote:
The hood release handle is missing and the cable sticks out from under the hood, how do I run the cable back inside the vehicle to where the release handle should be?
no clue on how to run the cable. the handle is a couple of screws and a $5 part for the handle once u get the cable inside the car.

Quote:
Thats all the things I've discovered so far, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
that's about all i know..

to take the door panel off..

turn the door lock button (the black one that goes up and down when the door locks open/close) counter clockwise, it unscrews.

pry out the little black plastic piece behind the chrome door handle (on the inside of the car.

you will see two screws behind the plastic cover, unscrew those.

things will be a little loose now..

when you open the door, there is a little C shaped chrome piece with two phillips screws on it..take that off.

take out screws that go directly into the door panel..I believe there is just one down at the very bottom of the door panel (in the center).

take out the two screws that hold the arm rest on there..one of them is burrowed underneath..get down on the ground and look up at it..point a flashlight in there and u will see it is a larger phillips screw.

there is another larger phillips screw holding the armrest that sits behind the inside (chrome) door handle.

it is pretty much common sense from there..you will lift the door panel UP to get it off the door lock, then pull it off.

yeah and you will want to pry out the light bulb housing (bottom right if you are facing the door panel) and pull off the electrical connection..two little prongs.
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post #3 of 4 Old 12-07-2004, 04:52 PM
 
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On the electrical side, three of the power windows don't work
and if the switches are not giving power..check the fuses first.

if the fuses are fine, you gotta take off that square wood panel where the switches sit.

to do this, pull out the ashtray, then look behind the ashtray and you will see two screws.

take out these screws then pull out the black piece that they are holding.

now take out the little coin tray just underneath the ashtray.

I believe that wood piece just pulls up from that point..check for any screws.

From below the seat switches, push UP and they will pop upwards from the wood. If you buy the seat switches first, you will get a better idea..but they have plugs on the end. Just pull the old switch off the plugs and there you go..easy.
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post #4 of 4 Old 12-11-2004, 03:22 PM
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Where ya been Willy?!!

Brakes are pretty straight forward. If you have deep grooves to line up in the rotors, maybe it is time for new rotors....

The windows are usually set up with the oppsoite corners to one fuse. Check both the console switches and those on the dor. If the fuses are ok, and none of the switches seem to work, then regulators are a fair guess. They are kind of a PITA to replace, but well worth doing your$elf.

Trunk leaks. Hmmm... I hae heard of rust under the back winshield on these cars, but not a whole lot. Since this is happening in a carport, let's say that is ruled out. Other potential sources of leaks are the taillights and the antenna base.

HTH..

\'87 Mer-B 300D (220,000 miles) (sold)
\'93 Mer-B 300D (173,000 miles) (sold)
\'87 Porsche 928 (101,000 miles)
\'98 Dodge Ram quad-cab (250,000 miles)
\'2001 CLK430 Cabrio (50,000 miles)

Past cars: 1969 mercedes 250, 1981 300D, 1972 220D
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