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Airmatic Issue Need Help

85K views 38 replies 3 participants last post by  eric242340 
#1 ·
I have a 2001 S-500 with airmatic. I jacked up the front end to change the tire and now both front struts are down and will not re-inflate. I have tried several things and what I am interested in now is this. Is their a way to manually inflate the struts so that I will know that they are not blown and also so that I can move the car.

Thanks,

ELJones
 
#2 ·
Jack the front up again until the weight is off the front but the wheels are still in contact with the ground and run the engine again for a few minutes and slowly lower the car, bit by bit until the weight is back on the wheels. Once it is down on the wheels push the airmatic switch to raise the car and wait.
 
#3 ·
Did that...

Thanks Eric, I did that but it did not work. I have also cleaned the sams/cans and made sure they were dry. I also replaced the relay. I did notice that the pump works when the relay is triggered manually but otherwise it does not. I have checked and replaced all bad fuses as well. Is their a way to disconnect the airline from the top of the struts and pump them up directly?
 
#4 ·
Thanks Eric, I did that but it did not work. I have also cleaned the sams/cans and made sure they were dry. I also replaced the relay. I did notice that the pump works when the relay is triggered manually but otherwise it does not. I have checked and replaced all bad fuses as well. Is their a way to disconnect the airline from the top of the struts and pump them up directly?
You cannot pump them up directly. Why did you change a tyre? Hit a pothole or something like that? If so you may have damaged/lost the ride height sensor linkage.
 
#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
I had a flat. All of the front end height linkage seems to be in place. If I jack up the car the 'car too low' goes out. When lowered it comes back on so the height indicators are working. Any other suggestions? On the driver side, under the hood, just behind the strut their is some type of valve that clicks really fast when the pump is running. Is it supposed to do that? Its only on the driver side.
 
#11 · (Edited)
No I don't hear it switching on (new relay). Before I purchased a new relay I opened the old relay and manually made the compressor work but the front end still did not rise. I did rise both sides (but not fast) prior to me changing the tire. Could their be a valve stuck open somewhere? I don't hear any air leakage.
 
#13 ·
Far as I know it did. I recently purchased the car and the person was driving it daily. I had it parked for about 3 weeks then I changed the tire and thats when the front end went down. Don't know if this matters but the dash was dark (out of warranty) when I had it repaired the abs, bas, esp lights come on. I've seen online that when it says abs that it will automatically cause the bas and esp to come on. Would any of this have to do with the airmatic system? Sorry for the delay, I'm checking in from work.
 
#17 ·
I took them out and made sure they were dry. I have not had the codes read since since the dark instrument cluster repaired. The codes the pulled when they fixed it were as follows:

C1200 ( I put in a new switch - its fixed )
P1925
C1000
C1026
C1517
C1013 ( I have had the battery in and out. Its currently out )
 
#20 ·
A little information on the checking of leaks for the Airmatic system will get you started with this job, mouse over and left click an image to enlarge and then click next;
 

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#22 ·
Now the codes are incomplete and hard to work out because C Codes should have more figures ie C1517 - 064 is an air leak between compressor and valve body, whereas C1517 - 002 is critical height on rear suspension. So you see the codes are not helping, you need the correct test equipment to pinpoint these codes accurately.
 
#28 ·
Let me know if this has anything to do with the front end not rising. On the dash their is a button that is supposed to be engaged when you jack up the car to tow it. The indicator on hat button does not light up. Would that keep the front end from rising? Also, I did have the car towed (on a flat bed truck) and did not use that button.

Also, on the same day the interior fan blower would not shut off even with the car off. Later I removed the blower regulator ( I have a new one but not installed yet) Now I am getting now power back to the battery from the alternator. Not having the blower regulator in place, would that keep power from going back to the battery?
 
#29 ·
If you are not getting power to the battery from the alternator then the alternator is duff or the wiring has a problem or the regulator on the back of the alternator is bad. The rest of your post has nothing to do with the airmatic problem, but lack of power to the battery does not help.
 
#30 ·
Just left the alternator shop. They have fixed the alternator but like you said their is a problem someplace in the wiring. They are tracking it. Also, do you know if their is a conversion kit to replace the airmatic shocks with regular shocks?
 
#32 ·
Ok, alternator fixed. Front struts checked and they are bad. Does anyone know of a place I can send in the shocks from my car to have rebuilt? If not, than other than ebay, where is a good place to find some re manufactured or used ones at a good price?
 
#37 ·
Airmatic on these models is a nightmare for owners and if anyone wanted to purchase a car that had been converted would at least know the can forget airmatic problems so it is actually a plus.

However I do not know how it would affect the ride as not too many people have given feedback on this. But they do do the rebuilt air struts as well which are much cheaper than originals, you may have to send your old struts for this.
 
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