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Discussion Starter #21
Well. Had a small win today. Just got off phone from workshop & they are going to use the turbo I'd payed $2100 for back many months ago so, that's back to me as credit!

The problem now is the $4k I payed them months back ($2100 for the turbo was included in that) in progress payments to keep the ball rolling. So with just a quick recap on work done:

a) Engine block tapped (turbo oil return), then fitted along with engine access' & also running gear fitted = $1k tops?

& work to be done in the next month (hopefully) to get it registered:

b) New full exhaust system = $5-600?
c) LPG set up including new mixer & condenser = $1k tops?
d) Custom inlet manifold & fitting with mixer etc = $1.4k tops?
e) Tune = $?

So that's $4k already [email protected] least I owe them nothing if this is about right for costing

I will be speaking with them again end of next week so I'll know better how it's all coming along
 

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Discussion Starter #22
aarrrrrgggggg!!!!

couldn't take it anymore :( Spoke again with workshop. Discussed another option to get this car BOOSTED!!!! :D Seriously, I can't handle the turd NA! I would sell it to a gay boy & buy a friggin worked Ford XR6 :mad: actually in all honesty I have a sore friekin neck from sitting on both Carsales & EGay searching out Aussie muscle BA XR6's & XR8's .....................then..........I had to go to workshop to pick up some screws I need for my MX6 interior (mistakenly taken along with nuts/washers/bolts for the Merc) &.......looked HARD @ the ol' beast one last time before contemplating pissin it off to a new owner :eek: I'd had enough of the workshop expense bull****!

So, says I, what can be done to get the bassad boosted, forgetting the insane expense of the EFI & just going with the already installed LPG? Even a 2nd hand Garrett for now? I don't care! Use the old intercooler & piping etc...

So. Here it is! A couple of weeks & hopefully the little bugger will be ready to take down & register. Then, either I have the turbo work completed or I do it myself. Either way it will be boosted haha :cool: I'll work out the details after it's on the road legally. First things first!

Basically it will come home stock LPG (all refurbished up & nice) with the custom plenum & TB (this will be used later for boosting = no waste of $$$'s) & just a 2nd hand zorst system & whatever bull****'s needed to get it on the road, @ least it'll be economical & different again
sigh*.................:)
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Anyone know if a Ford XR6T diff will fit our w124's, 300E to be specific. Even a Commodore diff as they use Opel stuff, ie: German stuff. Explains the similar rear ends & tailshafts/flex plates too. I can get my hands on a serviced Ford one right now is the reason I'm keen for info.

Heres a link below. Looks bloody close? What if you used the Ford axle shafts? Or tailshaft too?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....=STRK:MEWAX:IT
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Left the XR6T diff for the moment. Money better spent for immediate needs. Will be looking more into it though when the time comes that's for sure.

Looks like car won't be too long now before I can retrieve it from the infamous workshop Throttle body is being fitted to custom inlet plenum then, off to the powder-coaters for a nice matt/satin black, to give it a stealth look from the jerks in blue here. This will go for all go-fast bits inc IC piping I should here from them in about a week, prolly longer with their track record lol. Anyway, progress all the same!

Been looking into twin scroll hot sides & zorst mani's yesterday & today. As long as the workshop takes back the GT35R that they said they had a buyer for, I will most likely be getting the smaller, better adapted for my driving needs, GT3071R. This turbo has a smaller comp wheel but good turbine efficiency (basically the size ratio between the comp wheel diameter & turbine wheel diameter). I've got a supplier emailing the states for a twin scroll t3 or 4 flange zorst housing to mate to the GT30 guts. Will prolly go with the billet wheel & ceramic bearings, as with the previous GT35R I bought. Will be using the smaller hotside trim to to aid in spooling. The billet wheel will spool better too & being twin scroll, along with the twin scroll manifold, will make use of the pulse cycle of the exhaust valves = very Also, using a twin scroll, because you split the hotside flange diameter in half (split pulse), you can go bigger on the hotside A/R hehe

I kinda envisage mating the older twin turbo philosophy with a modern single turbo. Gain the low-end pick up whilst still having good mid to top power using the twin scroll design. This allows better scavenging of zorst gases & better efficiency/economy. Something I've always been about from the start!

I'm determined to get this 300E up & off it's ass swiftly. Doing all work myself except for fabrication work. Spending $$$'s on low-down performance rather than HP figures. I want the best 0-60 time I can possibly get on this dinosaur LPG set up. WHo knows, may be a fun thing when it's finished?

My only dilemma timewise is I may have to shelve the actual fitment til' I move in about a year or so up to Queensland, where I'll have to get another RWC see? I may do the fab work & stuff in the meantime to keep the project going along @ some pace.

May even position the turbo 'underneath' the zorst manifold to hide it from view as opposed to on top as before? Hmmmmm........
 

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Discussion Starter #25
well............just under a month & a half to finish the custom inlet manifold, hone out & re-jet the throttle body and re-route the cable & make a custom bracket etc///////.....not bad for an a-hole workshop ha?

I'm stuck with the GT35 turbo for now. They never sold it off.....:eek:

So......as it stands, car will be arriving home on flatbed somewhere around lunchtime here today. The beast comes back haha :D

So now begins the pita work here @ home for me. Alot of niggling things to sort from here. Basically I want to do things step by step. First gimee an exhaust system up using stock manifolds. Next, purchase & fit a new LPG evaporator. Then, re-connect all the gas lines same as they were prior to going to shop. Re-wire stuff in bay & sort the ignition system out. Replace any lines, vac etc. Basically get it running! :rolleyes:

Once it's up & running next is to swap out the front brake assemblies. Fit new springs & maybe shocks if they're stuffed?

Then move on to powder-coating the wheels & fitting new tyres. Then gimee guards, fit spacers, whatever it needs to get them to fit.

Fit the sound system and then go from there..........:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Until I find my camera:


This Ford below uses a very similar inlet plenum to the one I had custom made only, mine has longer runners as I have more room in my bay due to right-side degree of tilt of engine :





This 2nd pic shows runners similar to mine:





3rd pic shows the trumpets (aka velocity stacks) as they sit inside the plenum. These produce more torque:


 

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Discussion Starter #27
Lubed up the turbo bearings last night. Jockstraps @ old workshop aid turbo can sit for years with no worries. Bullshat! The shaft was just beginning to stick when turning it so I sprayed WD40 down the oil return hole, swishing it around the whole case, upside down you name it. Repeated this about 6 times. Spins freely now for few revolutions by hand. Phew!!!!

God you gotta luv these workshop experts don't you?????? Why do they breathe our air

Transmission guy that rebuilt mine said it'll be OK sitting around.

New LPG workshop guy said engine should be OK so will comment back once I've turn it over a few times. The first time in 10 months Off to Autobarn this morning to grab some cheap engine oil to put in engine. I may pull the rocker cover off to oil the valve seals (if I can get to them properly). Gez this engine is clean. No sludge or burnt oil marks anywhere. I remember seeing condition of the bottom end when sump was off when they tapped the turbo drain line in the block. Very clean! Looking through intake ports the valves are nice & black. Plugs where clean as. A strange normal steel colour actually Wierd!

Also grabbing some degreaser & metho to flush the crap out of the intercooler.

Next will be to scrape the head manifold surfaces ready for new gaskets when time comes.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Well engine turns by hand fine. Nice & smooth. I pulled the rocker cover & syringed oil all over the rocker gear. Couldn't help myself

My main concern is the water jackets & general cooling system. The water pump is a bit tighter than it should be. May change this?

Can't get over the awesome condition of the engine. Clean as a whistle. Just hope the valve seals are OK Bit hard to tell until it starts up & rns for the first time. That's a while off yet.
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Discussion Starter #29
Decided to relocate battery to the boot. So I have removed the battery stand & will re-rout ground lead under engine bay & back toward boot. The positive cable can run straight from Starter Motor back to boot making for a neat mod This works out perfectly due to the location of original copper LPG line site is right behind where battery sat With battery removed I can hide the twin LPG converters in it's place, tucked away out of sight :cool: I think I will be running a 2nd copper gas line beside the original one so all the LPG gear can sit in the old battery compartment. Looking from front of car all you'll basically see is the engine, turbo & intake manifold, minus ugly wiring etc ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Car is now in LPG performance shop. They have to fabricate some sort of splitter box that sits maybe on the new intake mani? to enable both the kick down cable & throttle cable to run to the new throttle body position (no in front of left headlight cover @ front of mani). Also, concerning the ignition rewiring, they'll prolly have to bypass the CC module on the block? I think considering aftermarket steering wheel, it won't work anyway? Too much bull shat to sort now imo.

Also, they're going to luv me for pouring oil all over the rocker gear/valves prior to turning engine by hand @ my place :rolleyes: I'm positive I got oil down the valves & definitely squirted oil down each spark plug hole Um, I will have to warn them :roll:

So, here comes the fun! When it gets home from shop this time round, I need to replace shocks/springs/front brakes. Install sound system just for starters. I will pop pics up for all this home stuff. Also, pics when car gets home after the engine bay work of course :cool:

EDIT: It will be very interesting, on the pocket too, as to how the hell the workshop will re rout throttle & kick-down cables to reach the front of the boxy plenum as this is where the LPG mixer now sits. Looks like they will be making up a divider, perhaps a bracket of sorts positioned @ the rear of the plenum where cables will unite & then subdivide to join other section of cables then heading down to throttle body/mixer :eek: Then they will have to fabricate an enclosure box for the pod filter I guess?

Indeed will be interesting............
 

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Discussion Starter #31
GUYS! she's gonna get BOOSTED yeeeehar! I convinced the wifey the need for power hehe

Was pondering the expense of needing entire new stock exhaust system from headers to tail this morning & on the gutless performance the car will be coming home with as an N/A on LPG when I had this brainstorm......"boost the thing now or go to hell" so, spoke with shop this morning who added the custom boxy would be horrible to tune as an N/A so, I said "er.......let's boost t now & get it over with already

He starts the LPG set up today & will discuss the fabrication of the steam pipe turbo header with his guy this week. I also have to take all the turbo & gear over there later in wek so he has it all ready to go.

FINALLY someone gives a crap about the 300E & there's no turning back, Jack!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Ok. So I can't run an ebc due to the dinosaur ECU. That's fine. But I don't want a mbc & the hassle of adjusting it up & down & inconvenience thereof. So, I am looking into a high/low switch as they have mounted in the dash of the early boosted Jap cars. They had a sophisticated ECU though obviously. an I run one of these? Is it simply an electrical toggle switch like in an auxiliary/thermo rad fan? Anyone know?
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
I can run an APEXI ebc as they have their own computer to control boost but they are too expensive for my liking...............

A member from another forum sent me a link to US dealer for the WG as too expensive down here. Prices are great so will be looking into this today. Tial BOV is about the same $$'s though but if packed together will save freight.

Also, looki looki into a way around the turbine housing dilemma I am faced with namely, whether to go with current .63 A/R or swap it out for the .82? sooooo, me thinki thinki.....a while back I mentioned I was researching into twin scroll turbine housings & went hard down this road for a bit but decided against it due to extra cost to swap over as it needed to be sourced from US for my custom turbo. Well, turns out I may just pick the banner up again Why? It will solve the housing dilemma :cool:

I have my turbo manufacturer getting back to me in an hr or so with availability of a .82 A/R twin scroll T3 housing to suit the turbo & may be here in Aus :cool: This way the header fabrication won't be held up as they can use the T3 footprint & swap out later even = much goodness :smile::smile::smile:

This is a really important mod for me & will ensure the car will be more competitive on the street hehe. Will report back with how it goes soon. Kinda running outta time with preparations now. Shop needs to get moving along..........
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Concerning the twin scroll housing, it uses a V Band exhaust housing so this will save me not having to get a dump pipe flange made up to suit as I need to with the current .63 housing. Also, I will get a discount if I send the .63 housing back.

Concerning ignition, we're having alot of hassle trying to work out the MSD set up that was originally on car. Real pita!!!!!!! Just can't see how the car originally got spark with this set up? Even a Merc guy we consulted states we need the original distributor but it's on dedicated LPG via a mixer damn it :evil: So effectively, we're stumped until we work this part out Either we source a trigger wheel here or we may go Haltech with wasted spark? This is what I'd rather do so we can get moving on it. Trying to work with this MSD is holding the whole thing up............
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Just completed ridiculously thorough research on how the ss .63 A/R turbine housing mated to the GT35R indeed behaves on specific 3.0L platforms. I say ridiculously thorough because I've spent hrs merely sifting through piles & piles of crap (2nd & 3rd hand advice) on forum discussions in order to get to the few posts containing the evidence from members actually owning/testing the stuff that others waffle on about, in order to weigh the 'pros' & 'cons' of the effects each housing has on street performance.

Anyway, finally realising the guy @ original workshop is correct on one important matter.......the .63 A/R housing will be a maniac for the street. Dyno figures aside (VE ie: top end performance/rwhp), the thing will be a wheelspin junkie :oops: Obviously the .82 A/R housing will = greater power & allow boost to come on more gradual (linear) & solve the wheelspin issue but the trade-off will be 500rpm added to spooltime :sad:

What does that exactly mean? If I use the smaller snail, I will have to watch exiting any remotely tight corners, especially in the wet ohhhh FUN :roll: Flipside? What fun this bugger will be once I get used to it hehe :twisted:...........er.......gettin off this ergonomic chair as I really have a sore ass & back & my legs are now totally numb 8-O
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Considering the Comp housing on my GT3582R is .70 A/R, I am leaning towards the .82 as I believe it's a better match than the present .63 A/R hotside.

SO, as I've heard, is the M103s' "sweet spot" between 4000 rpm & 6250 rpm redline? If so, am I better off shifting my focus to the higher end of the rev range? Concentrate up here to get the power advantage of the engine @ this range?

Up until now I was aiming @ quicker spool time & quicker pick, hence the smaller .63 A/R housing originally purchased. But considering the comp housing size, I now think this is perhaps a mismatch made in hell? not only working in the wrong rev range but coming on boost too early & causing excessive wheelspin.

I really want to make a final decision tomorrow when I have to speak with shop concerning spark.

Thanks guys in advance for your input :)
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
Well, after discussing back & forth with shop today, finally looked over the DIY MS site. Wow is all I can say The only thing it doesn't list is a VR sensor needed to read the trigger wheel but everything else is there. Man oh man!

For members that like the MS stuff, you can now get the MS III with MS3X v3.57 expansion card fully assembled for direct fire sequential capabilities & cylinder by cylinder fuel/ignition control? Some may have but I am blown away because this means the workshop can use it instead of the expensive stand alone's such as Microtech spark only ($980AUS) or the top notch Haltech Platinum Sport 2000 stand alone, like $2k without harness 8-O Fark off :evil:

I need to exhaust why I can't simply go wasted spark & use the Ford EDIS-6 system for example. It's due to it's incompatibility issues my workshop has experienced with LPG in the past. He's won't use it again.

Haltech tried to convince him to go with the platinum ECU becasue they had great success with a Beema you see? Hmmmm. Good salesmanship.

So, this is why I took the reigns & did some searching & think I won out ey? When doing custom work on these cars, you have to source **** yourself man ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #39
After lamenting & stressed to the eyeballs over the last week, today after persisting with engineers over the phone I found one willing to work with me

As long as it remains dedicated LPG I can virtually do what I like! He just wants the intake manifold stock other than the mixer set up. 10mm clearances all around whole car. Upgraded brakes (already have the set I purchased). Suspension not too modified. Wella. He sees the car when it's finished & writes the VASS cert

Needless to say I phoned workshop immediately & told him. Also, will be 'bottom mounting' turbo on manifold. Will be most prolly using a Haltech aftermarket ECU so I can run direct fire coil packs to protect against detonation. I know the weak links of the stock engine are the rings/landings & HG.

Also, I am looking @ below mounting the turbo on manifold now & keeping the .63 A/R rear so, heaven help me in the wet
Am negotiating with shop today U& may even bring car home to finish some fitment of parts myself. I have been put onto an engineer shop in northern Europe my a member down under on another forum who fabricated "bolt-on" engine parts & offers VEMS EMS complete with plug & play harness May even get an turbo exh mani from him as my shop has increased prices. Ahhh don't you luv these morons

THINGS ARE CERTAINLY LOOKING UP ! It's just if I bring car home I don't have means or know how to do the intercooler piping & any fabrication ie: custom dump pipe & exhaust, not to mention tune.....
 

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Discussion Starter #40
May have to top mount turbo after all as if I bottom mount it, I'll have to rotate comp snorkel & it will be pretty tight runners needed and dump pipe will be close to chassis. Just awaiting reply from OS engineer. He'll then do up a pre-invoice for parts & fab work then we're good to go! :cool:
 
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