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I bought a 2002 MB 320 E wagon base. The vehicle shifted with a slight slip. I had a mechanic flush the Transmission put in a new conductor plate and filled with ATF 134. After the repair the transmission will shift through all the gears but the car won't move. The mechanic told me the tranny is history. I checked the TCM and it was full of ATF . Cleaned it but result is still the same. Error codes were erased via 38 pin scanner after conductor plate install. I still can't believe the Tranny is history. Any opinions and help is appreciated. Thanks
 

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I bought a 2002 MB 320 E wagon base. The vehicle shifted with a slight slip. I had a mechanic flush the Transmission put in a new conductor plate and filled with ATF 134. After the repair the transmission will shift through all the gears but the car won't move. The mechanic told me the tranny is history. I checked the TCM and it was full of ATF . Cleaned it but result is still the same. Error codes were erased via 38 pin scanner after conductor plate install. I still can't believe the Tranny is history. Any opinions and help is appreciated. Thanks
Torque converter??
 
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So you're saying it worked before, but not after the trans service? As in drove into the shop and can't drive out? If so then my guess is they screwed something up. I can't imagine what or how but I guess they managed.
When I read it my first thought was your driveshaft is disconnected, but that would be a blatant scam by the mechanic and I can't imagine having the balls to do that, but I'd still check.
The trans should not shift through all the gears because it needs to verify speed, meaning it won't shift into the next gear unless it sees it sees the speed is high enough otherwise it would shift into 5th at a stop, which would be stupid. The way most trannys see that speed is via the output shaft of the trans which mates to the driveshaft via a U-joint or rag joint and I think you have latter. The output shaft and cars wheel speed are bascially locked together, meaning if you're doing 60 the shaft is spinning twice as fast compared to driving 30 and this applies when stopped too. So in order to up shift I assume the output shaft is spinning and the only way that can happen when none of the wheels are spinning is if something is broke or disconnected. One way to tell would be to put it in park, parking brake off, and push the car by hand. If it rolls then odds are the shaft is somehow no longer connected to the tires, or the park mechanism itself is broke but that would be yet another tranny failure that would make be incredibly suspicious considering those failures are super extremely rare. Yes, so rare that a triple compound adjective is required. If all is normal then of course the car won't move in park, except maybe a couple inches back and forth due to slack in the system. So if it rolls in park I'd normally suspect a broken axle, differential gear etc, but if it worked before they worked on it then I'd blame them, possibly a scam.
So do the push it park test and get back to us. Add more details as well, like how many miles are on the car/tranny, and was the "slipping" actually slipping or just shifting slowly. The difference is slipping will slip when you gas it despite being fully in gear. Like if you floor it from a stop, or a certain gear, and the rpm hits redline but the car is not, or barely, accelerating. A slow shift will slip simply because the system is engaging the clutches too slowly so it will slip only for the time it takes to shift. If slow shifting then it's fixable without taking the trans out, it'll be in the valve body or electronics causing it. If slipping after the shift is complete then odds are the clutches are worn down too far and the part that compresses them can no longer extend far enough to do so. It's possible the valve body or electronics can cause slippage like that but usually it's worn clutches. The clue is worn out clutches make a mess and all the old worn clutch material will be in the filter and pan, plus the fluid will be super nasty, meaning almost black from all the clutch dust. The pan will have a layer of nasty goop on the bottom which is all the dust settling there. So if the fluid was normal then the clutches are fine.
Fyi, by default the valve body and electronics cause the clutches to fail from the day you drive the car off the lot. So you're on a timer from day one but out of the ordinary failures of the valve body/elect can cause it to happen in a matter of minutes, or more slowly, like cutting clutch life in half.
Fyi, if the torque converter is toast you'd no doubt know it due to horrible noises, but again it would not be shifting if that happened.
You said the TCM was full of fluid, which is a whole different issue but usually that causes it to lock in 2nd gear. Either way, locked in 2nd or shifting, the car will move just fine.
 

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.........After the repair the transmission will shift through all the gears but the car won't move. ............. Thanks
I see two problems here:
1. Gear shifting is a function of the car moving. No movie no shifty. Perhaps a typo? Do re-post and re-state your issue
2. No mention of how the 722.626 was flushed. Dropping pan only removes 4 qts. A complete flush is a two-man job because engine/tranny-pump must be shut off immediately when fluid flow stops at loosened cooler line; an extremely delicate operation, per official STAR Service Manual P-2700-211-06.
Bottom line:
-Tranny pump is toast; can be replaced.
-Allow Indy 'thinking time'. Right now he, himself, is probably researching a doable fix; his opinion will be different tomorrow. Good luck!
 

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I see two problems here:
1. Gear shifting is a function of the car moving. No movie no shifty. Perhaps a typo? Do re-post and re-state your issue
2. No mention of how the 722.626 was flushed. Dropping pan only removes 4 qts. A complete flush is a two-man job because engine/tranny-pump must be shut off immediately when fluid flow stops at loosened cooler line; an extremely delicate operation, per official STAR Service Manual P-2700-211-06.
Bottom line:
-Tranny pump is toast; can be replaced.
-Allow Indy 'thinking time'. Right now he, himself, is probably researching a doable fix; his opinion will be different tomorrow. Good luck!
Agreed ^^

I did the transmission flush as stated above on my 722.6 a couple of years ago and it takes a lot of oil. I bought 20 litres from a supplier in Germany.
As a matter of course, I also replaced the 13 pin electrical connector at the same time.
 

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So you're saying it worked before, but not after the trans service? As in drove into the shop and can't drive out? If so then my guess is they screwed something up. I can't imagine what or how but I guess they managed.
When I read it my first thought was your driveshaft is disconnected, but that would be a blatant scam by the mechanic and I can't imagine having the balls to do that, but I'd still check.
The trans should not shift through all the gears because it needs to verify speed, meaning it won't shift into the next gear unless it sees it sees the speed is high enough otherwise it would shift into 5th at a stop, which would be stupid. The way most trannys see that speed is via the output shaft of the trans which mates to the driveshaft via a U-joint or rag joint and I think you have latter. The output shaft and cars wheel speed are bascially locked together, meaning if you're doing 60 the shaft is spinning twice as fast compared to driving 30 and this applies when stopped too. So in order to up shift I assume the output shaft is spinning and the only way that can happen when none of the wheels are spinning is if something is broke or disconnected. One way to tell would be to put it in park, parking brake off, and push the car by hand. If it rolls then odds are the shaft is somehow no longer connected to the tires, or the park mechanism itself is broke but that would be yet another tranny failure that would make be incredibly suspicious considering those failures are super extremely rare. Yes, so rare that a triple compound adjective is required. If all is normal then of course the car won't move in park, except maybe a couple inches back and forth due to slack in the system. So if it rolls in park I'd normally suspect a broken axle, differential gear etc, but if it worked before they worked on it then I'd blame them, possibly a scam.
So do the push it park test and get back to us. Add more details as well, like how many miles are on the car/tranny, and was the "slipping" actually slipping or just shifting slowly. The difference is slipping will slip when you gas it despite being fully in gear. Like if you floor it from a stop, or a certain gear, and the rpm hits redline but the car is not, or barely, accelerating. A slow shift will slip simply because the system is engaging the clutches too slowly so it will slip only for the time it takes to shift. If slow shifting then it's fixable without taking the trans out, it'll be in the valve body or electronics causing it. If slipping after the shift is complete then odds are the clutches are worn down too far and the part that compresses them can no longer extend far enough to do so. It's possible the valve body or electronics can cause slippage like that but usually it's worn clutches. The clue is worn out clutches make a mess and all the old worn clutch material will be in the filter and pan, plus the fluid will be super nasty, meaning almost black from all the clutch dust. The pan will have a layer of nasty goop on the bottom which is all the dust settling there. So if the fluid was normal then the clutches are fine.
Fyi, by default the valve body and electronics cause the clutches to fail from the day you drive the car off the lot. So you're on a timer from day one but out of the ordinary failures of the valve body/elect can cause it to happen in a matter of minutes, or more slowly, like cutting clutch life in half.
Fyi, if the torque converter is toast you'd no doubt know it due to horrible noises, but again it would not be shifting if that happened.
You said the TCM was full of fluid, which is a whole different issue but usually that causes it to lock in 2nd gear. Either way, locked in 2nd or shifting, the car will move just fine.
Thanks for that very informative post.

As you state, he drove the car into the workshop so something happened in there if it wouldn't drive out again.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
worked before, but not after the trans service? As in drove into the shop and can't drive out? If so then my guess is they screwed something up. I can't imagine what or how but I guess they managed.
Sorry getting back a little late to your Posts. Thank you. I think it was a slow slip The mechanic drove it to his place and told me it would not shift past 3 gear. He replaced the conductor plate and did a complete flush charged me for 4 gallon of Valvoline maxlife. Let me clarify shifting I can put the shifter through all positions from P to D . He showed me pictures when he took down the Transmission pan. He said there were no shavings or sprinkles of metal. I had it towed to another place who had the vehicle for a week and did nothing. Once I pressured them they told me it needs a new tranny but I think they did not do anything they did not charge me for a diagnostic (Free they said hmm) could also not produce anything for me to believe them. Towed the car to my place. I will try the parking push. Not sure where to go from here.
 

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Sorry getting back a little late to your Posts. Thank you. I think it was a slow slip The mechanic drove it to his place and told me it would not shift past 3 gear. He replaced the conductor plate and did a complete flush charged me for 4 gallon of Valvoline maxlife. Let me clarify shifting I can put the shifter through all positions from P to D . He showed me pictures when he took down the Transmission pan. He said there were no shavings or sprinkles of metal. I had it towed to another place who had the vehicle for a week and did nothing. Once I pressured them they told me it needs a new tranny but I think they did not do anything they did not charge me for a diagnostic (Free they said hmm) could also not produce anything for me to believe them. Towed the car to my place. I will try the parking push. Not sure where to go from here.
May sound silly but have you checked the ATF level?

Also if it was Valvoline maxlife ATF used which is Dextron 3, it's not compatible with your gearbox. The correct specification is MB 236.14 such as Fuchs Titan 4134.
 

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They used the Maxlife that is approved by MB. Fluid levels are goo
So you're saying it worked before, but not after the trans service? As in drove into the shop and can't drive out? If so then my guess is they screwed something up. I can't imagine what or how but I guess they managed.
When I read it my first thought was your driveshaft is disconnected, but that would be a blatant scam by the mechanic and I can't imagine having the balls to do that, but I'd still check.
The trans should not shift through all the gears because it needs to verify speed, meaning it won't shift into the next gear unless it sees it sees the speed is high enough otherwise it would shift into 5th at a stop, which would be stupid. The way most trannys see that speed is via the output shaft of the trans which mates to the driveshaft via a U-joint or rag joint and I think you have latter. The output shaft and cars wheel speed are bascially locked together, meaning if you're doing 60 the shaft is spinning twice as fast compared to driving 30 and this applies when stopped too. So in order to up shift I assume the output shaft is spinning and the only way that can happen when none of the wheels are spinning is if something is broke or disconnected. One way to tell would be to put it in park, parking brake off, and push the car by hand. If it rolls then odds are the shaft is somehow no longer connected to the tires, or the park mechanism itself is broke but that would be yet another tranny failure that would make be incredibly suspicious considering those failures are super extremely rare. Yes, so rare that a triple compound adjective is required. If all is normal then of course the car won't move in park, except maybe a couple inches back and forth due to slack in the system. So if it rolls in park I'd normally suspect a broken axle, differential gear etc, but if it worked before they worked on it then I'd blame them, possibly a scam.
So do the push it park test and get back to us. Add more details as well, like how many miles are on the car/tranny, and was the "slipping" actually slipping or just shifting slowly. The difference is slipping will slip when you gas it despite being fully in gear. Like if you floor it from a stop, or a certain gear, and the rpm hits redline but the car is not, or barely, accelerating. A slow shift will slip simply because the system is engaging the clutches too slowly so it will slip only for the time it takes to shift. If slow shifting then it's fixable without taking the trans out, it'll be in the valve body or electronics causing it. If slipping after the shift is complete then odds are the clutches are worn down too far and the part that compresses them can no longer extend far enough to do so. It's possible the valve body or electronics can cause slippage like that but usually it's worn clutches. The clue is worn out clutches make a mess and all the old worn clutch material will be in the filter and pan, plus the fluid will be super nasty, meaning almost black from all the clutch dust. The pan will have a layer of nasty goop on the bottom which is all the dust settling there. So if the fluid was normal then the clutches are fine.
Fyi, by default the valve body and electronics cause the clutches to fail from the day you drive the car off the lot. So you're on a timer from day one but out of the ordinary failures of the valve body/elect can cause it to happen in a matter of minutes, or more slowly, like cutting clutch life in half.
Fyi, if the torque converter is toast you'd no doubt know it due to horrible noises, but again it would not be shifting if that happened.
You said the TCM was full of fluid, which is a whole different issue but usually that causes it to lock in 2nd gear. Either way, locked in 2nd or shifting, the car will move just fine.

Did the parking test and the car is not moving in park. Fluid levels are good. They used the approved Maxlife full flush. 8 quarts i believe. The transmission has about 200k miles. Used Icarsoft scanner connected to the 32 pin adapter to check for codes after I cleaned the TCM and no codes are showing. Only other codes that is generally showing is a p0101 MAF. Cleaned the MAF code is persisting.
 

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The wrong tranny fluid won't cause it to not work, and I also believe it won't harm it over time either but the point is it won't do anything right now to cause an issue so you can eliminate it. Plus you said it was approved anyway so...
I've never programmed a new conductor plate to mate to a car so I don't know how easy it is to screw up, but I'd ass-u-me if you do screw it up it would throw a code? Maybe some guru can chime in on that?
There's also the valve body, which as it sounds, has valves. It's possible one is stuck. I'd once again ass-u-me they'd open it up to see but maybe they didn't.
The pump could be bad but they do so very slowly over time so I seriously doubt it's your problem. I was surprised you had 200k on it so I wonder if the tranny had been replaced before, or at least cleaned/flushed because you should have some gunk and slivers in the pan. Even a brand new car usually has slivers in the pan but if flushed/cleaned before you bought it I suppose it could remain more or less clean for quite some time. If they had flushed it and then the trans failed it should have something in the pan.
There are two fluid lines exiting the tranny that head to the radiator where you can check pressure to see if the pump is making the minimum psi. Not that I've ever checked psi, no need, but I have put a T fitting in to measure temp, which is what you'd need to do measure psi if you suspect it.

I think odds are you have pressure, or at least enough to drive it, so my thoughts point to something bleeding pressure. But there's still the issue with it shifting while the car is not moving which is baffling to me. I really cannot see how that is possible unless something is broken... If I had the tranny to take apart it would likely be easy to find anything obvious, but I've never taken a MB trans apart. Since you're striking out with me, and the forum overall, I'd seriously consider this place: Have Mercedes questions?
I've read some others in various forums have use it with good luck, and after all it's supposed to staffed with very experienced MB mechs. I've been super tempted to try it for an issue I'm having but I'm also very stubborn because I all but refuse to pay for help, and I really like to figure out and fix everything myself. I'd imagine you're much more willing to try them, and if you do please post what they said and your thoughts because I'd love to know. I'd lay out all the info for them, like the push test shows nothing is broken, it drive in but not out of the shop, and describe the slip in detail, like under what scenario it slipped. That is shifts but the car doesn't move, which I'd like to hear the answer on too...

Fyi I never had a MAF fail on the three or four cars I had from that era that had them, despite everyone claiming they are the cause of most issues and is what the dealer usually says needs replacing. I ran K&N filters too, which I always over oiled and the rumor is K&N oil kills them. I never believed that story and never had an issue. I did discover, at a friends shop, that a VW had the exact same MAF so I bought one ($25) to try and it worked perfectly. It only takes a couple min to swap out yet at the time it was >$500 to have the dealer replace one, most of which was the cost of the sensor. I don't know what VW it came off of but I imagine any around year 2000 or so will work? Probably other cars too, I just know the VW used it. Basically if it looks like yours it's no doubt the one. And I don't mean the sensor plus the section of intake tube it's attached to, which I see is how they're normally sold and I suspect this to trick people into thinking they have to have the MB assy. The sensor itself is in a little black plastic housing maybe 2" x 1.25 x .5" plus a plug on the end and a mounting flange with two holes held into that section of intake tube by two torx security screws. I forced those screws out with Vice Grips and replaced with just one Phillips sheet metal screw so I can easily remove it next time. Having two screws hold it was overkill considering sometimes I used no screws at all. I also cleaned my original MAF with a Q-tip wet with brake cleaner to see if it was true they were too delicate to touch and it did not hurt it. I'm the kinda guy that does that stuff to see what happens because I usually don't believe rumors, especially when they're the type most people won't verify.
So I'm sorry I/we don't the answer because I can't really tell you more without being there. I do have one other thought; the trans codes apparently won't show up using a normal OBD2 scanner so I bought the Autel MaxiAP200 which was $70 on Amazon. It was a pita to get working, and there are no instructions on how to use it, and it's slow as F but it will read a ton of things a normal code reader will not. It found the same codes that an Xentry program found, which is what the dealer uses, but alas it was just some lame stuff that didn't help me. For example it saw some light bulbs I had removed and claims some misc intermittent communication errors with things like my seat headrest and the mute button for the stereo. The point it is sees a lot of stuff so for $70 I think it's worth trying. Maybe get that first, then try that justanswer place.
 
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