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The passenger window will not operate. It started down, stopped and would not go back up. Now it will not go down. There is no noise from the motor. I installed new switches about a year ago. Drivers window works fine. Any ideas where to start looking?
 

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Does the motor receive power? Check the switch.
No power to the switch and check the fuse. Diagnose the source.
Power to the motor. Checked the motor, check the ground to the motor.

There are some plastic pieces in the mechanism that often break and jam the window. Mercedes source in Bellevue Washington used to carry these.

When it is repaired be sure that all the friction surfaces are lubricared. I spray silicon spray around the door frame where the window goes up and down to help reduce the drag in those areas. Make sure the rubber scrapers on the outside of the window or in good condition so water does not leak into the door. Also check the door drains. Clean out any rust in the bottom of the door and spray it with a good anti-rust paint or other solution.

video on the slides.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Does the motor receive power? Check the switch.
No power to the switch and check the fuse. Diagnose the source.
Power to the motor. Checked the motor, check the ground to the motor.

There are some plastic pieces in the mechanism that often break and jam the window. Mercedes source in Bellevue Washington used to carry these.

When it is repaired be sure that all the friction surfaces are lubricared. I spray silicon spray around the door frame where the window goes up and down to help reduce the drag in those areas. Make sure the rubber scrapers on the outside of the window or in good condition so water does not leak into the door. Also check the door drains. Clean out any rust in the bottom of the door and spray it with a good anti-rust paint or other solution.

video on the slides.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It was the switch. The original switches lasted 30 years. One of the replacements didn't make it 2. Thanks for the advice on general maintenance.
 

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Just a note if you cannot find oem quality replacement switches that last; use a relay or transistor. I do this to fix weak and/or worn switches and it works like a champ. Sure it's more work but if you want it to last then that's the way. Power windows take a lot of juice and that's means a very strong switch is needed, which they usually don't come with and aftermarket are usually even weaker. It's basically a matter of how many times it'll work, so a good one may last 5-10k times, but the more the mfg cheaps out the less times it takes to fail.
A relay is the easiest and better choice for your situation, just get a good 20A or more relay like the little Bosch ones that are black and ~ a 1" cube. To be safe I'd put a diode on the relay, which you can google the how, why and what kind to get. Some relays come with a diode but usually off brand models, but odds are even the cheapo no-name will work fine. If they have the correct diode I don't know so I won't use them.
I won't go into detail on a transistor because if you don't already know how to do it, including the pros/cons, then I'd pass.
And as nrkmann said, lube is your friend because the harder the motor has to work opening/closing it, the shorter the switch life will be. More importantly, increased load shortens the life of the motor and gears which are a lot more expensive and harder to replace. The gears and track in the door need lube too but most people never do it, they use until failure and replace. With MB parts you may want to price them, then decide if the effort to take it apart for lube is worth it.
Best of luck! :)
 
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