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Now the codes are incomplete and hard to work out because C Codes should have more figures ie C1517 - 064 is an air leak between compressor and valve body, whereas C1517 - 002 is critical height on rear suspension. So you see the codes are not helping, you need the correct test equipment to pinpoint these codes accurately.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Thanks, its going to take me awhile to find time to do this. I may try to find a local mechanic instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Let me know if this has anything to do with the front end not rising. On the dash their is a button that is supposed to be engaged when you jack up the car to tow it. The indicator on hat button does not light up. Would that keep the front end from rising? Also, I did have the car towed (on a flat bed truck) and did not use that button.

Also, on the same day the interior fan blower would not shut off even with the car off. Later I removed the blower regulator ( I have a new one but not installed yet) Now I am getting now power back to the battery from the alternator. Not having the blower regulator in place, would that keep power from going back to the battery?
 

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R.I.P Always Remembered
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Let me know if this has anything to do with the front end not rising. On the dash their is a button that is supposed to be engaged when you jack up the car to tow it. The indicator on hat button does not light up. Would that keep the front end from rising? Also, I did have the car towed (on a flat bed truck) and did not use that button.

Also, on the same day the interior fan blower would not shut off even with the car off. Later I removed the blower regulator ( I have a new one but not installed yet) Now I am getting now power back to the battery from the alternator. Not having the blower regulator in place, would that keep power from going back to the battery?
If you are not getting power to the battery from the alternator then the alternator is duff or the wiring has a problem or the regulator on the back of the alternator is bad. The rest of your post has nothing to do with the airmatic problem, but lack of power to the battery does not help.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Just left the alternator shop. They have fixed the alternator but like you said their is a problem someplace in the wiring. They are tracking it. Also, do you know if their is a conversion kit to replace the airmatic shocks with regular shocks?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Ok, alternator fixed. Front struts checked and they are bad. Does anyone know of a place I can send in the shocks from my car to have rebuilt? If not, than other than ebay, where is a good place to find some re manufactured or used ones at a good price?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Thanks, I've been looking at that. I have found some that say they are for:
Front Hydropneumatic Air Shock for Non 4 Matic Vehicles without Active Body Control. How can I determine if these are correct for my car?
 

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Thanks, I've been looking at that. I have found some that say they are for:
Front Hydropneumatic Air Shock for Non 4 Matic Vehicles without Active Body Control. How can I determine if these are correct for my car?
Contact them and discuss. They do a whole range of products for suspension but you must contact them and discuss your needs.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I see they also have a conversion kit. If I converted the from airmatic to regular shocks would my resale value increase or decrease? Whats your opinion or what have you heard?
 

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I see they also have a conversion kit. If I converted the from airmatic to regular shocks would my resale value increase or decrease? Whats your opinion or what have you heard?
Airmatic on these models is a nightmare for owners and if anyone wanted to purchase a car that had been converted would at least know the can forget airmatic problems so it is actually a plus.

However I do not know how it would affect the ride as not too many people have given feedback on this. But they do do the rebuilt air struts as well which are much cheaper than originals, you may have to send your old struts for this.
 
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