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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I am about to perform AT Cooling line replacement and also the AT connector adapter housing. Has onyone done this job? Any pointers and difficulty level please.
I have ML320, 1998.

Thanks.
 

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Most of the job is pretty straight forward. You'll have to move the fan shroud partly out of the way. If you have a set of MB fan tools, you can remove the fan and shroud all together, which makes it alot easier, but it's not totally necessary. The connector isn't too hard either. Just make sure you keep the area clean to prevent future leaks. And make sure the connector is fully seated in before you start tightening the bolt. And be very careful not to overtorque the bolt. You'll need a workshop dipstick, if you don't have one already to set the fluid level. I'd also be sure to use synthetic ATF, like your supposed to. It simply has a much much longer lifespan, and is what those transmissions are designed to use.

The dipstick has two ranges you can check the fluid level. It would probably be easier to set it in the 40*C range. I'd throw in one liter after the work, cycle it through each gear range. It'll probably take about 4-5 minutes of idling for it to reach 40*C. Then check it and add what's necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Zewerr.

I am planning on buying the dip stick to measure the ATF, as well as the ATF itself (synthetic MB brand).
You have mentioned that I should be careful not over tightening the bolt. I assume you referred to the connector bolts. What is the torque spec on it?
I am thinking of performing this job (cooling hose and connector plug replacement) without draining the ATF. Can it be done like that or will I be swimming in it? Please provide your recommendations as I have never done this on later model cars.

Thanks a lot.
 

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As long as you have something to catch the fluid, it shouldn't be a problem. Some will dribble out of the lines slowly when you crack them loose. The connector will leak about a liter when you pull it out. Pull it out slowly, or it'll come out fairly quick.

I don't know the exact torque specs on the bolt for the connector (can't seem to get WIS working to look it up). You'll see the size of the bolt. It's tiny. So make sure you snug it down, and not wrench the hell out of it. Otherwise, you might be pulling the valve body and replacing the high dollar electrics set.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Zewerr for all your help.
Will it be possible to get a picture/drawing of the transmission section (the connector area is what interests me the most) out of the WIS? I am curious to see all the parts and their part numbers that are in the area of the connector. Thanks again for all your help.
 
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