Benz Forum banner

21 - 40 of 63 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Good, you seem to be getting somewhere with it, keep us informed please.

Now i have tried it. The throttlebody seems to be fine. It open an closes ass it supposed to do and no limp mode when i pressed the the gaspedal to the floor.

Anyway the reason i thought the potentiometer was bad is because the idle is kind of rougn due to misfiring. The car runs fine when driving and when the engine is cold. As soon as it get warmed up the idle itr starting go rough.

And i got this fault code when i was doin a dtc with my autocom.

DTC Description
132 - ECU fault

156 - CAN: Signal from ETS/ABS
- abnormal signal

133 - Throttle potentiometer

136 - Throttle potentiometer

196 - Unknown fault code

140 - ECU fault

158 - CAN: Brake information
- Implausible

144 - ECU fault

157 - CAN: Signal from ETS/ABS
- abnormal signal

137 - ECU fault

163 - CAN: Signal from EZS
- Missing


Don't ask me why it seems as the same fault codes shows up twice or more
or what CAN: Stands for but as you can see itäs some dtc on the trottle potentionmeter.

This test was run just now so even is the throttle open and closes its still som error codes.

Any thoughts?

Things i already done so you know
Rewired the engine wiring
Test with other coils and changed the igition wires.
Cleaned the thottlebody
Tried with another E-gas module
Sent the ECU for troubleshooting. As far as they could see it was no problem with the ECU

I'm getting all out of ideas so it very soon will go for the junkyard
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Firstly CAN is the Control Area Network, basically it means the wiring.

Have you tried to clear the fault codes and then run the engine and read the codes again?

Ok thats good to know.
Yes i have. The keep coming back right after i've deleted them.
 

·
R.I.P Always Remembered
Joined
·
1,865 Posts
Ok thats good to know.
Yes i have. The keep coming back right after i've deleted them.
OK, well the EZS is the ignition unit. The next thing to do is pull the ECU out and check the inside of the ECU, look for signs of water ingress.

Also some of the new wires you have used may not be the correct size, if the wire is too thick or too thin then it will send a bad signal, ie too weak or too strong a signal which will confuse the ECU. So you may want to look at the wiring again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
OK, well the EZS is the ignition unit. The next thing to do is pull the ECU out and check the inside of the ECU, look for signs of water ingress.

Also some of the new wires you have used may not be the correct size, if the wire is too thick or too thin then it will send a bad signal, ie too weak or too strong a signal which will confuse the ECU. So you may want to look at the wiring again.

Ok crap. it took a long time for me to fix the new wiring so i'm kinda not in the mood to rip the harness out again since i had to cut 2 of the wires in harness cause i couldn't find the connectors and where they were attached to. i also think they were a special wire lika a coaxial cable with 2 cables in the same wire so that cable i wont be able to fix.

Anyway all the problems started when i changed the head gasket. After that the misfire started. It's been all the same since then

so it not good to use to thick cables? i mean to thin i would e problem due to power limits but to thick?
 

·
R.I.P Always Remembered
Joined
·
1,865 Posts
All control units work on a fine voltage tollerence ie 2.5 - 2.7 volts (just an example) but with thicker cable there is a higher ohm resistance so the voltage will be out of tollerence.

Also you cannot leave a few wires unconnected just like that. Every single wire has a job. If you have done a head gasket repair then I would go back and recheck the valve timing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
All control units work on a fine voltage tollerence ie 2.5 - 2.7 volts (just an example) but with thicker cable there is a higher ohm resistance so the voltage will be out of tollerence.

Also you cannot leave a few wires unconnected just like that. Every single wire has a job. If you have done a head gasket repair then I would go back and recheck the valve timing.

Ok. So i might do have to rewired some cables.
Of course i didn't leave any wires out. But i din't use coaxial cable when i cut one one of the cables. So to splice the cable back together I peel the coaxial cable and splice it together back with 2 regular 1.5 mm2 cable.

How do i chech the vavle timing?
When i removed the camshaft there were 3 bolt on the train that goes to timing chain so there were only 3 position you could put it back in and were very careful to put it back as it was before.

The timing couldn't be wrong the or could it?
 

·
R.I.P Always Remembered
Joined
·
1,865 Posts
OK forget the wiring for now we have a bigger problem. The timing on any engine is crucial and even one tooth out can make for a rough engine, more than this and it can damage valves.

You did remove the timing chain tensioner before taking the chain off the cam sprockets yes?

In the link, the first three pics are correct and the next two are incorrect;

Mercedes-Benz Forum - View Single Post - M104 engine: Timing issue -one for the GURUS
 

·
R.I.P Always Remembered
Joined
·
1,865 Posts
It depends on how far out the timing is, if only one tooth then idle speed will be rough yes.

Take the cam cover off and check your timing again as per the pic and then get back to me, if it is off speak to me before touching anything. For the bottom pulley timing mark, it is not the ring you use but the little hook to the left of the ring.

Also on the front end of the intake camshaft is the valve advance and retard mechanism, this can be moved by hand when the chain is off and should be in the fully clockwise direction before the chain goes on it.

The timing chain tensioner MUST be fitted in two pieces outer case first and then the inner, so if you loosened it and then tightened it, it will now be fully extended and too tight, this alone will put the timing out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
It depends on how far out the timing is, if only one tooth then idle speed will be rough yes.

Take the cam cover off and check your timing again as per the pic and then get back to me, if it is off speak to me before touching anything. For the bottom pulley timing mark, it is not the ring you use but the little hook to the left of the ring.

Also on the front end of the intake camshaft is the valve advance and retard mechanism, this can be moved by hand when the chain is off and should be in the fully clockwise direction before the chain goes on it.

The timing chain tensioner MUST be fitted in two pieces outer case first and then the inner, so if you loosened it and then tightened it, it will now be fully extended and too tight, this alone will put the timing out.

I should also mention that i never remove the cam sprockets from the timing chain. I locked in them in the timing chain with with lashing wire and i didn't spun the camchaft after the cylinder head was removed from the cylinder. I'm gonna check it anyway, just wanted to tell you.
 

·
R.I.P Always Remembered
Joined
·
1,865 Posts
I should also mention that i never remove the cam sprockets from the timing chain. I locked in them in the timing chain with with lashing wire and i didn't spun the camchaft after it was remove. I'm gonna check it anyway, just wanted to tell you.
That's good but the tensioner will have to come out, be separated and then fitted correctly or the chain will be too tight and thus affect the timing anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
That's good but the tensioner will have to come out, be separated and then fitted correctly or the chain will be too tight and thus affect the timing anyway.
Now i also remember one more thing regarding the fault codes. The program i'm using don't include the c36 amg car as an option. The closest i could come was the c280 but since its the same engine with the same type of injection i choosed to use that.So i don't know if that a problem when you do a dtc on the car?

I'm most certain also that i took out the tensioner totally not just released it.

Anyway. i have take the car apart today but i'm not sure what i'm supposed to do now?. from what i can se on the picture in the other link you should turn the engine to where the number 10 is in the round circle and the you should be able to put a drill in the backside of the camshaft sprocks and it supposed to be in the exact angle to be perfect lie in at the inside the valvehouse? sorry for not knowing exactly the english word for every part in the engine but i'm trying the best i can.
 

·
R.I.P Always Remembered
Joined
·
1,865 Posts
Now i also remember one more thing regarding the fault codes. The program i'm using don't include the c36 amg car as an option. The closest i could come was the c280 but since its the same engine with the same type of injection i choosed to use that.So i don't know if that a problem when you do a dtc on the car?

I'm most certain also that i took out the tensioner totally not just released it.

Anyway. i have take the car apart today but i'm not sure what i'm supposed to do now?. from what i can se on the picture in the other link you should turn the engine to where the number 10 is in the round circle and the you should be able to put a drill in the backside of the camshaft sprocks and it supposed to be in the exact angle to be perfect lie in at the inside the valvehouse? sorry for not knowing exactly the english word for every part in the engine but i'm trying the best i can.
Is the timing correct or not?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
I gave you pictures, what more do you want? Where is the problem with checking the timing? tell me and I will help.
i quote myself =)

'Anyway. i have take the car apart today but i'm not sure what i'm supposed to do now?. from what i can se on the picture in the other link you should turn the engine to where the number 10 on the crankshaft is in the round circle and the you should be able to put a drill in the backside of the camshaft sprocks and it supposed to be in the exact angle to be perfect lie in at the inside the valvehouse?


Is this right?
 

·
R.I.P Always Remembered
Joined
·
1,865 Posts
i quote myself =)

'Anyway. i have take the car apart today but i'm not sure what i'm supposed to do now?. from what i can se on the picture in the other link you should turn the engine to where the number 10 on the crankshaft is in the round circle and the


Is this right?
Not the 1O in the circle, the OT to the left of the circle and it matches with the little hook to the left of the circle. And this bit is correct;

you should be able to put a drill in the backside of the camshaft sprocks and it supposed to be in the exact angle to be perfect lie in at the inside the cylinder head.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
Not the 1O in the circle, the OT to the left of the circle and it matches with the little hook to the left of the circle. And this bit is correct;

you should be able to put a drill in the backside of the camshaft sprocks and it supposed to be in the exact angle to be perfect lie in at the inside the cylinder head.

Ok now i see. Gonna check that tomorrow =)

Do you know why in the fault code list i sent there is some of the faultcodes that appear more than 1 times?

Do you also know if the number before the text in the fault codes mean anything?
 

·
R.I.P Always Remembered
Joined
·
1,865 Posts
Ok now i see. Gonna check that tomorrow =)

Do you know why in the fault code list i sent there is some of the faultcodes that appear more than 1 times?

Do you also know if the number before the text in the fault codes mean anything?
Sorry but I have many questions to answer for people and too little time plus it is early morning here and I have to work in the morning, just check the timing and then we can move on from there.
 
21 - 40 of 63 Posts
Top