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Discussion Starter #1
Little Blue has been sitting since the end of the summer, and sat for most of the summer before that due to no AC.

Basically she quit starting. I let her sit for a month or so. bought a new battery and she fired up and ran again. Then she quit starting again.

Charged the battery several times and she wouldn't turn over and run.

gave it one last charge and try on a 105 Texas day and she fired right up and ran for about 2 weeks then quit.

I am a diesel engine moron. Any help, where to start? Anything. I was going to replace the fuel filter and fuel pump first. Any insight would be great.

Thanks,
Claytor
 

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Well there is no concise answer without answering a bunch of questions.

Are the Glow Plugs working? If you have the original Loop/Filament style Glow Plugs; when one goes bad they all stop working because they all are in a series circuit.

Next question is when you try to start are you getting Fuel up to the Injectors? Verify this by loosening the Fuel Injection Line Nuts at the Injectors and see of Fuel comes out from under them when you Crank the Engine.
If not you could have a Fuel Supply issue or a Fuel Injection Issue.
Fuel Supply issues are clogged Fuel Tank Screen, Clogged Filters or Air leaks due to loose or cracked Fuel Hoses. On the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump the old style Aluminum Bodied Hand Primer Pump could be leaking and causing an Air leak. The Fuel Supply/Lift Pump itself could need a rebuild kit.

Fuel Injection issues could be caused by the Fuel Injection Pump Governor if it is a Pneumatic one. If you have a hose or tubing going from the Intake Manifold to the back of your Fuel Injection Pump and you have a Butterfly Valve in the Intake Manifold you most likely have a Pneumatic Governor.
The Governor Diaphragm gets stiff (I read if was made of special treated Goatskin) or gets holes in it.

Is there good compression? Do a Compression test.

Is the Starter/Battery allowing the Engine to crank fast enough to start?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thank

330D thanks for the detailed info. Tomorrow I am going to start by changing the plugs and fuel filter for starters and see what that does. I will also take your advice on the fuel supply etc.

I hate to see this beautiful machine sit any longer. I'll let you know how it goes.

thanks.
claytor
 

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Take care that you hook the wires on the Glow Plugs back up correctly. If you have a digital cammera I would take a pic.
 

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They make a kit to convert from series (loop tip) to parallel (pencil tip) configuration, which I highly recommend.

Actually I do not think he needs that complete Kit as his year has a Knob that you Pull (aka Gorilla Knob) that is a manual Switch that activates the Glow Plugs. So, he does not need the Relay that comes with the kit.

He could buy the individual Glow Plugs and make his own jumper wires.

After that he would need some sort of Instruction to wire it.

I only recommended making sure his Glow Plugs work incase his issue is bad compression. If his compression is bad he might not want to spend extra money on a Glow Plug kit. He might want to fix the Engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Guys,

I replaced all of the fuel filters and checked the injectors, the charged the battery. Still no luck. Then I noticed that a ground wire that went to the plugs was missing!? I attached the ground wire and she fired up on the second pull!

The compression is good, and she is faster than ever! So psyched to have her back on the road.

On the plug wires...the ones that are on there now are simply jumpers form plug to plug. It looks like someone used 14-2 house wire to jump between the plugs? is this normal? They are insulated.

Any Idea how much a 72 220D is worth? Exterior is excellent and original, interior is in good shape, few cracks on the dash and could use a bit of headliner repari...no AC?

Any insight would be much appreciated!

Happy Driving, Happy New Year.
 

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Thanks Guys,

I replaced all of the fuel filters and checked the injectors, the charged the battery. Still no luck. Then I noticed that a ground wire that went to the plugs was missing!? I attached the ground wire and she fired up on the second pull!

The compression is good, and she is faster than ever! So psyched to have her back on the road.

On the plug wires...the ones that are on there now are simply jumpers form plug to plug. It looks like someone used 14-2 house wire to jump between the plugs? is this normal? They are insulated.

Any Idea how much a 72 220D is worth? Exterior is excellent and original, interior is in good shape, few cracks on the dash and could use a bit of headliner repari...no AC?

Any insight would be much appreciated!

Happy Driving, Happy New Year.
How much a used Car is worth has to do with what area of the Country you live in. See if you can find some from your area selling on eBay or the Craiglist as see what people are asking for them.

I have not seen the Engine on your year of Mercedes since 1975 so I do not remember what the wires look like.
But, I believe you should have some zig-zag resistance wires between the Glow Plugs with the jumper wires on the out side.. At least I have seen them in pictures.
I will try to find a pic. In the Picture Red Arrows Point to the Resistance Wires.

For the other wires I guess as long as the with stand the Amperage they are OK.
 

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On my previous Post the resistance wires are used only with the standard Glow Plugs not the Pencile update type Glow Plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Wow, Zeitgeist and 300D man you are amazing! Thanks for all of your help. My plug wires definitely dont look like the photo, and my engine seems to be missing the squiggily wires that the red arrows indicate.

I have a book on a CD, but it has very few illustrations, not to mention the old lap top doesn't like motor oil. I am going to replace many of the fuses and the glow plug wires next!

Every time she gives me trouble i wonder if i should sell her before something major happens, then I drive her, and I can't bear the thought.

Thanks again gentlemen!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Now the battery keeps draining??

Well,

The little blue beast is back on the road!

However, the battery keeps dying and I cant figure it out? I have been told to disconnect the fuses and see if the battery keeps dying, one fuse at a time? I guess there is a way to check with a multi meeter as well?

It seems like it would be faster to just replace all of the fuses at once? The dash board lights went out and now the battery seems to drain faster, so I will start there today.

As always, any insight is greatly appreciated.

Happy Driving
ClaytoR
 

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The idea with pulling Fuses one by one is trying to locate what is causing the drain on you Battery. If you pull one and there is no more drain that is the problem circuit.

The only thing that should draw current all of the time is the Clock.

If you disconnect the Fues that goes to the Clock (that fuse will include the Clock and some other items).

After that disconnect one of the Battery Wires at the terminal and connect your Volt Meter between the Battery Wire and the Terminal.
With the Clock Fuse pulled there should be no voltage showing as there is no complete circuit.
If Voltage is showing pull one fuse at time until the Voltage gets cut off. When the voltage gets cut off that is the circuit that has a short.
 
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