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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2016 GLE350 since new upon engine start Radio/Comand system would automatically power up and radio would return to station selected when shutdown. Following last dealer service this has ceased and on each engine start you must manually power up the system. I assume they did not disconnect the battery as all presets remain intact. Dealer has no clue, anyone else had this issue?
 

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Ironically this just happened to me on my 2016 E550. One day about a month ago it was just as you described with the command/radio and I had no clue why. The same time the backup camera would fail to work about half the time, it would just be a blank screen. When it did work it took much longer and I'd already be backed up by that time. Then a few weeks later the engine started to miss a little so I figured a coil must be on the blink. Why coils go bad I'll never know but that's another story. It wouldn't do it all the time but maybe 10% of the time, and when it did it would not stop until I turned the eng off and restarted, which is also weird because how would that change anything in the coil? It felt like one, maybe two cyls were dead at cruise speed, less at higher rpm and much much worse at idle. Idle would be bad that the whole car would shake as if half or more cyls were missing. So after the second day of that I'm trying to use an OBD scanner to see if it says anything because as usual when I have an obvious problem, no matter how serious, there is no check eng light.
Trying to get the scanner to work is always a bitch and takes quite some time to connect, meanwhile I had the ign on but not started. After about 10min I figured I'd better start it before I run down the original battery that I know is weak. Too late, batt can't crank it... I fully charge the battery and it starts fine but problems continue. So I drive to Walmart and buy a new AGM battery, their best one for like $170. Instantly the command/radio now works normally, as does the camera. The Eco stop/start mode has never worked in the 15 months or so I've owned it, which I prefer, but now it does! So now I have to figure out how to disable that. It's only been a few days but the engine has not missed since.
Point being that apparently the battery caused all these problems! I should say the computer caused them because the voltage was good when the eng is running so how would the computer or any other part know the bat is low as long as it's running? So my guess is programming. I'd bet $ it's set up to detect the voltage when off, then when it sees the batt is not so good it'll start causing problems so (hopefully) you'll take it to the dealer where they can relieve you of a paycheck.
I'm guessing your battery is original too, and apparently the same age as mine, so replace it and lets see what happens. Even if it's not the problem you're due for a batt anyway so no real loss.
The dealer seems to usually say they don't know what whatever problem is, but I also bet $ they know exactly what virtually all issues are. You work on the same cars day after day, year after year, you know... It's more profitable to troubleshoot for hours and maybe throw parts at it than it is to simply fix it in 10min.
Let me/us know what happens!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ironically this just happened to me on my 2016 E550. One day about a month ago it was just as you described with the command/radio and I had no clue why. The same time the backup camera would fail to work about half the time, it would just be a blank screen. When it did work it took much longer and I'd already be backed up by that time. Then a few weeks later the engine started to miss a little so I figured a coil must be on the blink. Why coils go bad I'll never know but that's another story. It wouldn't do it all the time but maybe 10% of the time, and when it did it would not stop until I turned the eng off and restarted, which is also weird because how would that change anything in the coil? It felt like one, maybe two cyls were dead at cruise speed, less at higher rpm and much much worse at idle. Idle would be bad that the whole car would shake as if half or more cyls were missing. So after the second day of that I'm trying to use an OBD scanner to see if it says anything because as usual when I have an obvious problem, no matter how serious, there is no check eng light.
Trying to get the scanner to work is always a bitch and takes quite some time to connect, meanwhile I had the ign on but not started. After about 10min I figured I'd better start it before I run down the original battery that I know is weak. Too late, batt can't crank it... I fully charge the battery and it starts fine but problems continue. So I drive to Walmart and buy a new AGM battery, their best one for like $170. Instantly the command/radio now works normally, as does the camera. The Eco stop/start mode has never worked in the 15 months or so I've owned it, which I prefer, but now it does! So now I have to figure out how to disable that. It's only been a few days but the engine has not missed since.
Point being that apparently the battery caused all these problems! I should say the computer caused them because the voltage was good when the eng is running so how would the computer or any other part know the bat is low as long as it's running? So my guess is programming. I'd bet $ it's set up to detect the voltage when off, then when it sees the batt is not so good it'll start causing problems so (hopefully) you'll take it to the dealer where they can relieve you of a paycheck.
I'm guessing your battery is original too, and apparently the same age as mine, so replace it and lets see what happens. Even if it's not the problem you're due for a batt anyway so no real loss.
The dealer seems to usually say they don't know what whatever problem is, but I also bet $ they know exactly what virtually all issues are. You work on the same cars day after day, year after year, you know... It's more profitable to troubleshoot for hours and maybe throw parts at it than it is to simply fix it in 10min.
Let me/us know what happens!
Thanks for your timely input. I never lost my backup camera, nor had any driveabilty issues. Most auto systems have a tolerance of about 8 volts as a reference voltage, below that and the gremlins start. Mines holding 12.43 volts and tests ok. Took your advice and picked up a new battery today, I will swap it out tomorrow. 5 years is a good life for a battery pulling the electrical load in this vehicle, so really good preventive maintenance. I will give you a follow up. Thx
 

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It did take a while for all that to happen to mine, so maybe a couple more weeks and you might too?
The radio thing had been at least a month but I didn't note it so could be as much as two. It's also possible I didn't notice at first because I often leave it off, and I when I leave for work I've literally only been awake for 10min so I'm not really paying attention. What I did recall was it was off enough times in a row that I thought it odd, so I made certain it was on and the next morning I knew. The camera some weeks later, but again I didn't note it. The first eng miss I did note, which was 14 June. It's as if there are voltage set points where the computer kills things, which I imagine is on a check list programmed in. Sounds a little foil hat-ish but we agree that nothing should malfunction at >13 volts no matter what. The Eco thing I can see being programmed like that because the batt should be tip top to trust that feature, so if the programming is there to do that then it isn't much of a stretch to add more things to generate $. Like how Apple got caught slowing older phones to get people to buy new. No matter that anyone thinks, companies exist for one, and only one reason; $. So shady crap doesn't surprise me.
It makes me wonder if yours would do the same things if you left the old batt in, which would add weight to my conspiracy theory.
My batt didn't get even get all that low really. Even sitting for days the batt read >12.5, and running was 13.7? I forget the exact idle voltage but it was perfectly healthy and the alt was not struggling at all to maintain it, which I discovered is in the OBD system. I was curious what the batt is now after sitting outside in the dirt for 9 days; so I just checked: 12.51V. Not bad, considering, and even more so after you read the following:

Couple other things I forgot to mention: In January, after getting home, the car didn't lock when I touched the handle. I had to use the key fob. It was just that one time so maybe a fluke but fyi. Then in March the batt died very shortly after getting home. This one is weird: So after I'm home for a couple hours and I see the mirrors are not folded in, so I forgot to lock it which is rare but it happens. So I click the remote, nothing. Hmmm, remote must have a weak batt, so I get closer but nothing. I put the remote next to the door, nothing. I touch the door handle to lock it, nothing. Wth? I open the door, no dash lights or anything at all. Double wth. Push start, nothing. Put the key in and turn it, nothing, not even a relay click. It's as if the battery is missing. Pop the hood and check voltage; 4.1V... Now I'm really confused because you have to make an effort to get them to 4, and it would be especially impressive do that in 2 hours with no load. Even with a load it's not easy. Plus, 2 hrs is just when I noticed, who knows how long it actually took, what cause it and why it stopped. I checked current drain and it was a couple mA.
I put a very shallow charge on it of ~1.5A (only charger I had handy) for maybe 4 hours and it fires up, which is 6AH at best so also weird. I idle it for maybe 30min to give a little juice for the next morning and it was fine. When I killed trying the obd scan it was 11 something V, which is a normal # for a just killed batt. 4V is not, nor is how quickly it happened. Plus it's 12.5 now after sitting all this time. So the way I see it is the car killed it. I don't know how, especially since there were no lights, fans etc on, but I don't see any other explanation. Maybe it waited until I was out of ear shot and fired up the fan, which is crazy but I don't have a better story. Well, maybe Gremlins, which I don't entirely discount due to decades of unexplained issues. Take the following one for example:

I have another issue, a serious one, that I had hoped would also magically fix itself with the new batt. No such luck... The computer is pulling boost which it's done since Jun of last year. No codes, nothing physically wrong, it's just commanding the wastegates to drive to a much lower psi and cutting power pretty much in half. The only fix may be selling the car, which I've had to do with a number of cars thanks to unsolvable electronic mystery issues. All computer issues imo. A shame to have what is basically a factory hot rod that is about as quick as an economy car. I don't suppose you have any thoughts on that problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It did take a while for all that to happen to mine, so maybe a couple more weeks and you might too?
The radio thing had been at least a month but I didn't note it so could be as much as two. It's also possible I didn't notice at first because I often leave it off, and I when I leave for work I've literally only been awake for 10min so I'm not really paying attention. What I did recall was it was off enough times in a row that I thought it odd, so I made certain it was on and the next morning I knew. The camera some weeks later, but again I didn't note it. The first eng miss I did note, which was 14 June. It's as if there are voltage set points where the computer kills things, which I imagine is on a check list programmed in. Sounds a little foil hat-ish but we agree that nothing should malfunction at >13 volts no matter what. The Eco thing I can see being programmed like that because the batt should be tip top to trust that feature, so if the programming is there to do that then it isn't much of a stretch to add more things to generate $. Like how Apple got caught slowing older phones to get people to buy new. No matter that anyone thinks, companies exist for one, and only one reason; $. So shady crap doesn't surprise me.
It makes me wonder if yours would do the same things if you left the old batt in, which would add weight to my conspiracy theory.
My batt didn't get even get all that low really. Even sitting for days the batt read >12.5, and running was 13.7? I forget the exact idle voltage but it was perfectly healthy and the alt was not struggling at all to maintain it, which I discovered is in the OBD system. I was curious what the batt is now after sitting outside in the dirt for 9 days; so I just checked: 12.51V. Not bad, considering, and even more so after you read the following:

Couple other things I forgot to mention: In January, after getting home, the car didn't lock when I touched the handle. I had to use the key fob. It was just that one time so maybe a fluke but fyi. Then in March the batt died very shortly after getting home. This one is weird: So after I'm home for a couple hours and I see the mirrors are not folded in, so I forgot to lock it which is rare but it happens. So I click the remote, nothing. Hmmm, remote must have a weak batt, so I get closer but nothing. I put the remote next to the door, nothing. I touch the door handle to lock it, nothing. Wth? I open the door, no dash lights or anything at all. Double wth. Push start, nothing. Put the key in and turn it, nothing, not even a relay click. It's as if the battery is missing. Pop the hood and check voltage; 4.1V... Now I'm really confused because you have to make an effort to get them to 4, and it would be especially impressive do that in 2 hours with no load. Even with a load it's not easy. Plus, 2 hrs is just when I noticed, who knows how long it actually took, what cause it and why it stopped. I checked current drain and it was a couple mA.
I put a very shallow charge on it of ~1.5A (only charger I had handy) for maybe 4 hours and it fires up, which is 6AH at best so also weird. I idle it for maybe 30min to give a little juice for the next morning and it was fine. When I killed trying the obd scan it was 11 something V, which is a normal # for a just killed batt. 4V is not, nor is how quickly it happened. Plus it's 12.5 now after sitting all this time. So the way I see it is the car killed it. I don't know how, especially since there were no lights, fans etc on, but I don't see any other explanation. Maybe it waited until I was out of ear shot and fired up the fan, which is crazy but I don't have a better story. Well, maybe Gremlins, which I don't entirely discount due to decades of unexplained issues. Take the following one for example:

I have another issue, a serious one, that I had hoped would also magically fix itself with the new batt. No such luck... The computer is pulling boost which it's done since Jun of last year. No codes, nothing physically wrong, it's just commanding the wastegates to drive to a much lower psi and cutting power pretty much in half. The only fix may be selling the car, which I've had to do with a number of cars thanks to unsolvable electronic mystery issues. All computer issues imo. A shame to have what is basically a factory hot rod that is about as quick as an economy car. I don't suppose you have any thoughts on that problem?
Voila! New battery installed and all electrical working as it should. Sorry, don’t have a clue on your drivability issue. Can’t imagine something that acute not throwing a code.
 

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Good to hear! Crazy huh?
I never get codes for actual issues, with one exception about 15yrs ago; I had a bad O2 sensor code and it was actually correct.
Of the codes I do get, regardless of make/model, they're wrong. I've had two Benz that I got rid of because of that. One had a code that would not go away, P0400 (EGR), yet the EGR was functioning fine. Can't fix what aint broke but can't smog it with a code so the car was basically a paperweight. The other had a serious issue where you couldn't drive it until fully warmed up, but no codes at all. After giving up I took it to the dealer, who insisted it was the MAF, which is a dealer default answer to everything and they wanted $500 to swap it. To prove them wrong I swapped it with one from my other car while the service manager watched me do it. So they tried looking again but were unable to find the problem. They had the car for about a week altogether but were kind enough not to charge me. Excluding about three alignments in my life, it's the only time I've taken a car to a mechanic.
Another Benz, which I forget what the code was, had nothing wrong but once again the check eng light prevented a smog check. I had to wait until the exact moment after clearing the code, but before it reappeared, to get it smogged. This took weeks and a few failed smog checks but I did it. Before the next smog was due my mother crashed it so problem solved.
I am glad my latest issue was easy to fix, and help prevent you from wasting $ at the dealer. I hope it helps others that read this. I really do believe the cars are programmed to force people to go to the dealer for no real reason. For example, Google the Phoebus cartel who made sure light bulbs have a short life so you're forced to keep buying them.
 
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